The digitization of fashion week, coupled with social media and a few powerful celebrity seals of approval, helped put a new class of brands on the consumer radar this year. In Lyst’s “Year in Fashion 2020” report, the global fashion search platform offered a deep dive on the brands with rising star power, particularity those that reinforce conversations around sustainability, accessibility and diversity.
French label Marine Serre—the brand with the “logo of the year”—ranked No. 1 on Lyst’s list of breakout brands. “Marine Serre is a fast-rising brand with consistent growth in popularity since the end of March,” Lyst stated, noting that celebrities like Dua Lipa, Kylie Jenner and Selena Gomez have been fans of the brand’s signature moon print.
Beyoncé, however, magnified the brand’s presence by wearing its catsuit in “Black Is King” this summer. That moment in the spotlight led to a 426 percent spike in searches in only 48 hours.
The widespread appeal of Telfar’s signature shopping helped the New York brand nab the No. 2 spot. Retailing for $150-$257, the vegan bag became an unconventional status symbol this year, heightened by a one-day-only pre-sale for the coveted accessory, Lyst reported. And interest in the brand only continues to grow. Searches for Telfar have seen a 270 percent increase week-on-week since August.
Founded in New York and relocated to Italy, 1017 ALYX 9SM’s mix of influences captivated consumers and fellow brands in 2020. Big names like Nike, Moncler and Mackintosh collaborated with No. 3 1017 ALYX 9SM, driving up searches for the brand by 610 percent year-on-year. Expect more eyes on the brand as founder Matthew Williams settles into his new role as Givenchy creative director.
With 1.8 million followers on Instagram, No. 4 Fear Of God has the biggest social media following out of all of Lyst’s breakout brands. The brand introduced its seventh collection this year—which was two years in the making—adding suiting, knits and accessories to its repertoire. The Los Angeles-based brand also showed another side of its aesthetic this year in a collaboration with heritage Italian label Ermenegildo Zegna, and is Adidas’ newest collaborator.
It has been a productive year for Pyer Moss founder Kerby Jean-Raymond. Along with establishing a platform with Kering designed to empower the next generation of creatives, the designer was named Reebok creative director. These achievements only deepened interest in No. 5 Pyer Moss, Lyst stated, driving searches up 220 percent year-on-year.
At No. 6, Casablanca is gaining traction, thanks in part to influential celebrity fans like Travis Scott and J Balvin, and a recently launched women’s line. Casablanca’s effortlessly cool aesthetic—a type of apres-sport styling—is capturing consumer attention as well. Lyst reported that searches for the brand have climbed 77 percent in a three-month span.
No. 7 Martine Rose may be a long-time favorite of outsiders, but the London-based brand’s outerwear collaboration with Italian label Napapijri is wooing all types of comfort-seeking consumers. “Martine Rose Fleece” is one of the most searched keywords on Google, Lyst reported, and month-over-month searches went up by 354 percent in April.
Los Angeles streetwear label and creative collective Brain Dead lands at No. 8. Searches for the low-key cult favorite with a skate and post-punk aesthetic increased 120 percent year-on-year.
Searches for No. 9 Sunnei have increased 108 percent year-on- year. Lyst noted the contemporary Milan-based brand will likely expand its direct-to-consumer business and retail locations after being bought by the owner of influencer-favorite fashion brand Nanushka in September.
And proving that the streetwear category still has gasoline in the tank, Chinatown Market ranked No. 10 on the list. The Los Angeles-based streetwear label stepped out in 2020 with “prolific” collaborations, Lyst noted, including one with Grateful Dead and Crocs. Searches for Chinatown Market increased six-fold over during the summer after the boldly printed clogs dropped.