Denim takes a rest from vintage influences for Spring/Summer ’19, allowing for a new wave of refinement and creative fashion to make a statement.
The Denim Première Vision fashion team named the key fabrics, trims and silhouettes for S/S ’19 this week at the Paris-based trade fair. Described as a “real evolution of denim,” the season is a balance of masculinity and femininity; relaxed and refined; and modernity and playfulness.
Fashion may change, but the demand for comfort remains as high as ever. For S/S ’19 comfort comes in the form of power stretch and bi-stretch, as well as generous cuts, looser constructions and less restrictive fits. Soft and creamy fabrics are achieved through blends of lyocell, recycled elastane, cotton and linen. The result is liquid-like fabrics. Trims, including polished metals, smooth leather patches and graphic patterns finesse the neat and neutral aesthetic.
Overall, silhouettes are not tight. Cigarette pants—worn looser than before—are a staple for men and women. Mid-length peasant skirts return, both plain and decorated. Others feature an asymmetrical hem or a trendy paper bag waist, which also appear on women’s wide leg trousers. “Well placed fullness” and bell hems add shape to silhouettes. Pant legs run extra-long, allowing for dramatic turn ups. Jean jackets and button-down shirts are boxy and short. Denim shirts (sans the typical Western influence) are especially popular for women.
Denim is decorated on the inside with prints and jacquards—a trend that adds an unexpected design element to the season’s crop of hybrid jackets. Another novelty for the season is “inside out denim” to create new colors and lighter surfaces.
Astro dyes, twisted colors, rainbow button holes and jacquards in unconventional hues speak to the trendy fashion consumer. The result is unicorn denim. Floral embroideries, images made with delicate lines and brilliant holograms and coating for labels and fabrics inject a sense of joyfulness to denim fashion. The look is brought to life through playful trims, including strategically placed lacing, contrasting zipper tape and gemstone or crystals.
After many seasons of diagonal weaves, the Denim Première Vision trend team sees the return of square weaves. Rectangles, geometric shapes and the comeback of basket weaves puts a focus on surfaces. Micro seersuckers, raised jacquard and manipulated surfaces like intricate pleats and stitching are a step away from embroidery. Other jacquards are quieter and match in shade to create a subtle texture.
Mid-blue is a go-to color for the season. Washes are uniform and less vintage inspired. However, washing techniques are used to create hazy, fantasy effects. White denim evolves from last season’s off-white to a more colorful look. Tinges of pastel hues, sunset gradations and airbrush effects come into play. Hints of color contour garments. Soft metallic, delicate iridescent and pearlescent add shimmer. The look is fresh and toned down.
The soothing, dream-like theme is carried into trims, which sees an uptick in blush colors for men and women that echoes Millennial pink. Contemporary pastels and transparent materials are also important. Wispy elements of tulle, embossed plastics, cut-out labels, tracing paper and muslin enhance these styles.
To contrast, other trims are gigantic. Stretched out labels, extra-long threads that take on a fringe quality, enormous back yokes and patches that fill the entire back make unforgettable impressions.