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Denim Through the Lens of Avant-Garde Fashion Designers

Denim Première Vision presented denim through the eyes of avant-garde designers. The trade show invited eight designers to partner with show exhibitors to create forward-thinking creations that pushed the boundaries and expectations of denim.

The capsule collection were on display at the Paris trade show last week. The designers also participated in Denim Première Vision’s first Denim Pop Up Street in Le Marais.

Finnish designer Tiia Maria Jaakkola, best known for her combinations of contrasting elements, explored different ways of creating fabrics using denim waste in experimental ways. Jaakkola used two sustainable materials in her designs to create varying textures and a bold camouflage pattern. One fabric included 30 percent recycled cotton, the second was made with 44 percent Lyocell. Hints of sparkle honored Scandinavia’s whimsical design sensibility.

Denim Through the Lens of Avant-Garde
Tiia Maria Jaakkola

Inspired by folk and workwear, Ampersand Heart NY set out to create a capsule collection that represented the “intersection between jeans culture and high fashion.” The long dress with full sleeves was made with Blue Farm’s striped indigo cotton shirting treated with a light wash. The lace-up dress was detailed with a modern element, YKK’s blue-tinted metal zippers. The coordinating jumpsuit and chaps was made from 100 percent Lyocell fabric from Spanish mill Textil Santaderina and treated with a cloud effect.

Denim Through the Lens of Avant-Garde
Ampersand Heart NY

Fashion label Afterhomework, founded by Pierre Kaczmarek in 2014, based his collection on workwear from past centuries and modern times. The big peasant skirt and craftsman aprons were made with fabric from Kurabo Industries and Vicunha Textil.

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Denim Through the Lens of Avant-Garde

Designer Hannah Brabon promotes slow fashion. The designer’s collections are focused on creating luxury, sportswear-inspired knitwear with a lower impact on the environment. For her capsule collection for Denim Première Vision, Brabon manipulated organic cotton and recycled Lyocell inspired by the sky and sea. A combination of bleaching, fraying and knitting techniques were used to illustrate a sense of playfulness.

Denim Through the Lens of Avant-Garde
Hannah Brabon

The collection by Berlin-based label Fade Out Label remained true to the brand’s philosophy of urban, unisex and sustainable garments. The capsule consisted of comfortable, oversized fits made with patchwork of upcycled or vintage denim. Tiles of various shades of denim created a mosaic-like look, while contrasting black mesh and shiny metal trims brought a touch of lightness. The brand’s signature Fade Out label were hand-screen printed on leatherette and canvas.

Denim Through the Lens of Avant-Garde
Fade Out Label

Los Angeles-based denim knitwear line Knorts collaborated with Denim Première Vision exhibitors Kassim Denim, Artistic Milliners, Era Garment and KMS to create a collection of genderless athleisure garments. For the first look, Knorts Founder Eleanore Guthrie designed a pair of fisherman wading pants and a matching cropped shirt made out of Kassim’s jacquard denim. The garments feature a jacquard design that reflects the knitted denim pattern typically identifiable in Knorts’ collections. The second look—boxing shorts and a matching oversized pullover—was made with woven denim from Artistic Milliners. Guthrie sought traditional denim that allowed the same flexibility and comfort as knit denim.

Denim Through the Lens of Avant-Garde

Proêmes de Paris played with fire. Inspired by Ray Bradbury’s novel “Fahrenheit 451,” the label tried to “torture” and push the limits of denim fabrics by finding a balance between sublimation and destruction. The French label also accentuated denim pieces with volume and dropped seams to see if they would still be perceived as classic denim garments.

Savoar-fer, founded by Swiss designer Eliane Heutschi, used a pleating technique to contrast light fabrics with the thickness of original workwear cloths. The pleats give form to fabrics, but the garments are designed to hide body shapes. Garments are cocoon-like and float around the body.

Denim Through the Lens of Avant-Garde