Evergreen collections, high-end sneakers and assortments of refurbished denim are among the new ideas Glen Martens has introduced to Diesel since joining as creative director in 2020. Now the designer is turning his attention to the traditional catwalk.
Diesel announced plans to show its Fall/Winter 22-23 collection at Milan Fashion Week (MFW) on Feb. 23, 2022. This marks the brand’s first time formally participating in MFW’s women’s wear segment after it has previously presented at the men’s shows.
The event will reveal Martens’ second runway collection for Diesel, following the Spring/Summer 2022 collection presented in a digital format. Like the first collection, the F/W 22-23 lineup will feature an all-gender wardrobe reflective of “Martens’ unique design sensibilities applied to the Diesel universe,” the company stated.
Diesel also confirmed participation in MFW for the Spring/Summer 2023 show season, which occurs in September 2022.
Sustainable denim will likely be a strong part of the collection. “Once you’re at the head of a global brand, you have to question what it means to be in this position and having such power today,” Martens told Rivet earlier this year. “We will always remember we have one of the greatest denim knowledges in the world, always focusing on being a social and environmentally sustainable brand.”
Martens’ first collection, positioned as a high-level concept, served as a new chapter in the heritage brand’s story. Diesel’s reused deadstock denim was transformed into a lattice-detailed, smocked and floor-grazing topcoat. Blazers, shirts and denim trousers were finished with a laser print forming a trompe l’oeil effect of layers and seaming. Other denim pieces were embossed with Diesel logos for a sculptural effect. Second-skin jersey pieces were printed to have the appearance of washed denim, while additional upcycled jersey pieces were cut-and-sewn and dyed to create new jumpers and bomber jackets.
The collection also includes an unexpected item: 5-pocket denim trousers with integrated boots.
All eyes will be on how Martens interprets Diesel fashion shows. The designer has already put his mark on the brand’s stores, introducing an “atmospheric experience” that uses the company’s red tag aesthetic and hue as a primary design feature.
Additionally, the brand and its parent company OTB Group have been dabbling in NFTs. Along with introducing NFTs of Diesel’s new sneaker, the Prototype, the company established Brave Virtual Xperience (BVX), a new business unit dedicated to developing products for the metaverse.
