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Glenn Martens Debuts First Collection for Diesel

A “contemporary interpretation of Diesel’s bold and ironic history” is how the Italian denim brand describes the first full collection designed by creative director Glenn Martens.

The Spring/Summer 2022 collection fuses nods to Diesel’s heritage with Martens’ high-concept approach to fashion design.

“For the former, it’s about diversifying and evolving its product array as we enter the early 2020s under a new world paradigm, and for the latter, it’s about creating garments with a democratic, global pragmatism,” the company stated. “The result firmly carves out the next chapter in Diesel’s evolution, balancing popular appeal, clever design and, most of all, an uncompromising vision.”

The collection, shown in an all-gender presentation, offers new approaches to pandemic-fashion buzzwords like utility and upcycling, which Diesel has been experimenting more with as of late. Denim, and the essence of denim, is carried throughout.

Reused deadstock Diesel denim is transformed into a lattice-detailed, smocked and floor-grazing topcoat. Blazers, shirts and denim trousers are finished with a laser print forming a trompe l’oeil effect of layers and seaming. Other denim pieces are embossed with Diesel logos for a sculptural effect. Second-skin jersey pieces are printed to have the appearance of washed denim, while additional upcycled jersey pieces are cut-and-sewn and dyed to create new jumpers and bomber jackets.

Another key design element is an interwoven belt accent, which holds together T-shirts, tops and dresses. Looping through cutouts in the garments, the belts form a “backbone” that anchors each item in an inventive new drape and form, Diesel said.

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The collection also includes an unexpected must-have in designer collections as of late: 5-pocket denim trousers with integrated boots. The pants, available in high-waisted or medium rise and various washes, are sewn into cowboy boots or pointed-toe booties. Saint Laurent presented a similar all-in-one bottom for Pre-Fall 2021.

Spring/Summer 2022 also marks the launch of Diesel Library, an evergreen collection of genderless jeans, shirts, tops, skirts, shorts and more that serves as a base for the brand’s seasonal designs. The enduring designs are backed by responsible manufacturing methods, including fabrics made with low-impact components such as organic and recycled fibers and finishing treatments performed with water- and chemical-reducing techniques.

The collection was revealed Monday in a short film made in collaboration with the artist and director Frank Lebon, and musician Leon Vynehall.

The film blurs the lines between reality and a dream, following a main character moving through “familiar yet slightly askew” environments, the company described. It begins in a home setting, followed by a scene on a city street and another on an elevator ride. The film concludes in a surreal “alien room” bathed in a deep red filter.