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Levi’s Made & Crafted Shows Its Dark Side for Fall

The goth kids have grown up. Levi’s Made & Crafted drops a Fall/Winter 22-23 collection next week that adds a dark twist to new shapes, proportions and silhouettes.

Featuring a moody color palette mixing “shadow tones and abstract graphics,” the collection experiments with traditional autumnal elements like ombre and buffalo plaids while exaggerating the proportions of classic styles. Simple yet bold graphics inspired by early 20th-century avant-garde artists play against shadow tones of the same color, Levi’s said.

“With Levi’s Made & Crafted, we take the Levi’s DNA but translate it in ways that aren’t as literal as other Levi’s collections,” said Paul O’Neill, head designer for Levi’s Made & Crafted and Levi’s Vintage Clothing.

Pinterest named goth as one of its key predictions for 2022, adding that the once fringe aesthetic was going mainstream thanks in part to celebrities like Kourtney Kardashian embracing fashion’s dark side. During 2021, the content-sharing platform saw searches for “goth business casual,” a look defined by all-black suiting, dresses and tights, increase 90 percent, while “goth pajamas” climbed 185 percent. Pinterest said the trend is especially strong in the U.S., where Pinterest is seeing interest in “cybergoth,” which nods to rave and cyberpunk culture, and nostalgic ’90s “mall goth.”

Highlights in Levi’s goth denim range include a new wide-leg jean and Trucker jacket made with a green denim fabric that has a black weft instead of a natural color weft. As the pieces are worn, the black will show through more and more. A new cropped, wide-leg version of the Barrel jean and a new Flare jacket, which pairs elements of a Type II Trucker with a cinched waist and flare in the back, are also featured.

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Patterns throughout the collection play tricks on the eye. A buffalo plaid ombre shirt has a pattern that increases in size as it moves down the body. A blouse is made with a windowpane fabric that looks like a grid of sheer and solid strips. An oversized mock neck sweater has dark knitted rectangles inside rectangles. There’s also a slightly oversized take on a classic Donegal sweater featuring bordered white and black knitted rectangle graphics.

Outerwear plays a key part in the fall collection, including contemporary versions of Levi’s archives pieces like a chocolate brown suede bomber with a black Sherpa collar that’s based on a jacket from the 1950s. Other styles like a new reversible bomber jacket mix dark colors with panels of pink, red and green.

A heavyweight twill shirt jacket with a kangaroo pocket is offered in earth tones, while a collegiate-style collared jacket in burgundy denim also features black in the weft.

“It’s designed for everyone and can be mixed and matched for a really playful approach on shape and silhouette,” O’Neill added. “The focus is still on classic design, but we mess with those traditional elements to make everything feel more fresh and interesting.”

The collection retails for $78-$1,200 and will be available on Aug. 24 online and at Levi’s stores.