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Moschino’s Ode to New York City Is Larger Than Life

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Subway performers are the latest accessory to hit the runway.

Moschino took over the New York City Transit Museum Monday night with a Pre-Fall 2020 show that celebrated the city’s quirks, culture and uptown versus downtown style.

True to Moschino’s whimsical nature, the men’s and women’s show featured a melting pot of exaggerated styles, spanning Harlem kids’ penchant for streetwear, to the Upper East Side ladies who lunch, to the Lower East Side’s crew of hipsters and party girls.

“New York is the ‘city that never sleeps,’” Jeremy Scott, Moschino creative director, said in a statement. “With that in mind, I wanted to offer a little bit of everything. A round-the-clock set of ensembles for city girls and guys who aren’t afraid to go from the ballroom to the back room, then watch the sun come up over the East River. There’s nowhere else in the world where you get that kind of energy and magic!”

The collection delivered several “made you look” looks, including a collection of garments with photo real prints that mimicked the texture of black leather and trompe l’oeil gold zippers; jackets with prints that resembled the grain of denim, high-rise trousers worn as a strapless jumpsuit and an array of novelty bags in the shape of paper cups, lighters and baseball caps.

Denim was a common thread across the collection. Men’s items included oversized jean jackets, slim jeans with stacked hems in clear blue washes, double-layer jeans and denim cargo shorts. Women’s denim looks included a crystal-embellished stretch denim mini-skirt, a bustier top with dungaree straps and bright blue denim overalls.

Following in Balenciaga’s footsteps, Moschino played with supersized proportions and bite-size accessories. Puffer jackets ballooned over tees and jeans. Giant baseball hats dwarfed models’ heads. And oversized gold nameplate necklaces, rings and earrings clunked alongside massive gold chains and cartoon-like wrist watches. To contrast, tiny backpacks were wrapped around ankles.

The show concluded with a performance from a troop of subway dancers.

This is Scott’s second homage to New York in a year. The Fall ’19 collection for his eponymous label featured garments emblazoned with black-and-white newspaper print and headlines by The New York Post.

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