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Net-a-Porter Taps Agolde, Citizens of Humanity and Goldsign for Exclusives

When it’s deliver-or-die, supply chains become the lifeblood of a company. To that end, the fashion industry has embraced technology to navigate today’s hyper-complicated supply chain, with myriad solutions shaping the first, middle and last mile. Call it Sourcing 2.0.

Citizens of Humanity Group, the owners of the premium denim brands Citizens of Humanity, Agolde and Goldsign, launched its most sustainable capsule collection to date, designed exclusively for Net-a-Porter’s sustainability platform, Net Sustain.

Ahead of Earth Month, the women’s capsule collection showcases how each of the three Los Angeles-based labels maintain their distinct design points-of-view while using responsible sourcing and production methods.

“We’ve really pushed the boundaries for this capsule by experimenting with new ecological approaches and eliminating various processes used in traditional denim production,” Citizens of Humanity Group stated.

The luxury online retailer introduced Net Sustain in 2019 as a one-stop-shop for products that meet at least one of its nine sustainable attributes spanning “considered” processes, ingredients, and materials, local production, and products made with regenerated or upcycled materials or packaging. The curated sustainable edit includes jeans by E.L.V. Denim, Ahluwalia and Patou, as well as information about garment care.

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For its Net-a-Porter and Net Sustain debut, all steps in Citizens of Humanity Group’s denim production were open to re-evaluation.

The group’s team sourced 100 percent organic cotton and recycled fabrics that would lower the impact on the environment, working with patternmakers to “fine-tune each garment prototype” and laundry facilities using “green washes and dyes,” laser technology and ozone machines.

Citizens of Humanity
Citizens of Humanity Courtesy

The company said it tested and mixed several natural enzymes to achieve wash formulas that replicate the worn-in look that comes with stone washing and used sustainable synthetic stone alternatives made from recyclable materials that do not absorb chemicals or decompose into sludge waste.

Parts of the collection were colored with Ferra Dye, a natural dye extracted from the plant Indigofera Tinctoria with fastness comparable to synthetic indigo. This powder version of indigo is certified to GOTS Version V by the Control Union of the Netherlands. Vegetable dyes made from the bark of an acacia tree were applied to some products. Organic and green certified softeners, silicones and neutralizers were also implemented to give fabrics a soft touch while using fewer chemicals.

For trims, the designers turned to existing raw materials, including recycled thread for stitching and woven labels made with recycled ocean plastic. The patches used on Citizens of Humanity jeans use a synthetic apple leather blend derived from food waste.

Citizens of Humanity
Citizens of Humanity Courtesy

The brands incorporated their standard hardware trims manufactured using raw materials that contain 75 percent of recycled scraps from previous processes. The trims are created with renewable energy generated by photovoltaic panels with little water and don’t use galvanic coatings that produce mud or waste, the company stated.

Design-wise, the brands offered three distinct looks tapping into the current demand for a variety of fits and colors. Marble surfaces and red casted denim enhanced Goldsign’s signature voluminous silhouettes, which are balanced by tie-dye and solid black bodysuits. Agolde’s range introduced two new styles: the Rowen Comfort mid-rise straight jean and the Mason high-rise straight.

For Citizens of Humanity’s range, creative director Marianne McDonald explored “eco-modernism” by combining contemporary fits with vintage workwear inspiration. Key items include the Horseshoe jean with unfinished hems and two jumpsuits.

The capsule collection retails for $130-$500.