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Former Levi’s Designer Jonathan Cheung Designs Genderless Denim for Unspun

Months after releasing its most sustainable jean yet, Unspun is back reinventing classic blue jeans.

On Wednesday, the Hong Kong- and San Francisco-based jeans startup launched Un-labelled, a custom fit unisex denim collection. The loose-fitting jeans are designed by former Levi’s head of design Jonathan Cheung, who joined the Unspun’s advisory board in September.

Un-labelled jeans align with Unspun’s zero inventory production model. The company uses AI and 3D modeling—accessible to consumers through its app or at one of its three locations in the U.S. and Hong Kong—to create custom and on-demand jeans.

The jeans are made with organic cotton and dyed using a zero-water dyeing process and environmentally friendly finishes. Consumers can choose stretch or non-stretch constructions.

Genderless and loose fits are certainly industry buzzwords as the denim category enters the post-skinny jean era. New brand Non recently released launched its genderless collection, while jeans with roomier fits are prevalent in spring collections by brands like Levi’s, Wrangler and Boyish. None of them, however, are made on demand.

The Un-labelled collection, Unspun stated, cements the company’s ethos by finding a fit solution that’s agnostic to gender, ethnicity and body type. Cheung added that once the traditional paradigm of fits—be it athletic, plus or petite—is eliminated, designing returns its focus on the individual.

Unspun launched Un-labelled, a custom fit unisex denim collection designed by former Levi’s head of design Jonathan Cheung.
Un-labelled Collection Courtesy

The loose fit is also a style that Cheung noted is missing in Unspun’s current collection. “If like me, you love vintage jeans, but finding your perfect fit is like finding a needle in a haystack, then meet your new best friend, this relaxed ’90s-inspired Unspun easy fit,” he said.

Creating the jean, however, was also a test for the company’s AI capabilities. “Making skinny fits is theoretically simple,” Cheung said. “You scan the body and wrap the jeans close to the body scan. I wanted to see if the AI could learn a sense of looseness. Could it understand how to build a vintage style, relaxed slacker of a jean?”

The answer is yes, according to the denim veteran. Cheung, who was an Unspun customer before becoming a collaborator, says the company is “onto something” with the “self-learning, pattern-cutting, body recognition AI” it is developing.

Consumers can create their own Un-labelled jeans now by downloading the Unspun app to complete a scan. The jeans retail for $200-$215.