With no major trend in sight, women’s denim brands at Project Las Vegas and Stitch offered variety and novelty and plenty of it.
From athleisure silhouettes that create slimmer shapes to rigid fabrications that speak to the higher end of the market, Level 99 Designer Amie Gaines said women’s fashion is under the influence of many things.
The influence of the European market was evident in Level 99’s line of black and gray denim. The company also introduced jeans and denim dresses with new snake and leopard laser prints, some with coatings. To contrast, a buttery color garment dye is performing well. Retailers like it as their winter white option. Gaines said the brand plans to expand its use of the color.
Hem treatments run the gamut from destroyed and bite hems, to jeans trimmed with delicate black lace. Jeans are cuffed with twill tape. Tape also appears as subtle details on coin pockets.
Velvet touch denim, particularly as a kick flare, is gaining momentum. Traditional button-fly jeans as well as gauchos and kick flare jeans made with Tencel blends are strong. The brand also does a moto jacket with a soft, buttery Tencel fabrication. Gaines includes a denim dress each season, this time a snap front, cap sleeve jean dress with a back zipper.
Outside of denim, Gaines said Level 99’s faux suede is always a top performer for fall. Stretch sateen and skinny cargos remain relevant in the collection. The company’s pull-on jeans are also outperforming expectations. Gaines said consumers especially like Level 99’s versions because they don’t look like a pull-on jean.
Depending on the market, James Jeans sees interest in a mix of rises and ankle lengths. For Fall ’18, the brand focused on high-rise skinny silhouettes, along with cropped hems and hem details. Velvet touch fabrics, plush jewel tones and cords diversify the collection.
James Jeans denim jacket—a slightly longer than usual cut—is a standout with a quilted interior and Sherpa collar.
NYDJ follows up the Spring ’18 introduction of its sculpting and shaping collection, Curves 360, with more novelty pieces. The company is scaling back on the number of washes offered in its core business to focus more on fashion pieces. “It gives consumers more reason to buy,” a rep said.
For NYDJ newness means fresh silhouettes including boot cut crop, a slim body with wide cuff and an updated straight jean. The cut is more masculine than previous straight styles from NYDJ with no tapering at the knee.
The company is also playing with release hems and back pockets with release hems. Ankle length camouflage print jeans and velvet pants with sleek front vents, fresh interpretations of frays used as side seam interest and new chino fabrics add textural and visual interest.
Parker Smith received the velvet memo as well. The brand offered an indigo velvet jacket and matching tuxedo pant with a high-low hem. The coordinates were a show piece.The brand’s core denim collection featured hems with side slits, frays and chop-outs. Track stripes decorated seams, while “faux rigid” with two percent stretch offered a brush hand feel and vintage look. Parker Smith dabbled in workwear with a jean jacket with utilitarian pork chop pockets.
Nicole Miller plays up denim’s decadent side with crystals and embroidery. Account executive Sumer Kashyap said retailers are experimenting with shape. The brand saw interest in its range of flare, boot cut and bells.
Black floral embroideries are embellished with black crystals. Collar-less jean jackets are dressed up with chunky white crystals.
Kashyap said the crystal embellishments are reminiscent of ’90s style bling, but the focus is less on the back pockets and more on front details.
Liverpool is building on the success of its core line that retails for under $100 with a new premium collection called LVPL by Liverpool. “We have stores that can take a higher price point,” said Holly Arnesen, Liverpool executive vice president, about the LVPL’s $120-$140 retail price range.
Designed with upgraded materials and elevated styling—think laser cut white gauchos—the 8-piece collection premiered in September 2017 at Coterie and returns for fall with a wider selection.
Fall ’18 styles span jeans with raw edges, studs on floral embroideries and tulip hems decorated with scroll-like embroidery, to studded jean jackets with vintage print lining.Founder Jill Perilman’s forward-thinking style carries into the standard Liverpool collection. Highlights include pull-on jeans with release hems and vintage washes that mimic real jeans, rigid boyfriend jeans with pork chop pockets, contrasting stitching and antiqued D-ring hardware and leather coatings that have the weight and feel as the real deal.
Liverpool updates jean jackets with bell sleeves, double hems, elongated bodies, drop shoulders with three-quarter sleeves and youthful short sleeve.
Black and white color blocking and athletic stripes add an instant pop of novelty. Tonal embroideries add richness to this season’s crop of blush and gray jeans, which Arnesen said will carry into spring nicely.
Liverpool’s consistent sell through and retailer-friendly programs, including rewards for recommendations and consignment packages that allow stores to test product—make it possible for the brand to continue to expand its collection, Arnesen said.
“We can’t be everything to everyone, and we’re not trying to be the first with trends, but we encourage our customers to bring in newness,” she said.