Denim Première Vision has extended beyond the reach of a traditional trade show.
Last week’s event, located outdoors at the serene Parc Floral de Paris, was in the business of creating a unifying experience for the denim and fashion communities—at least in part by setting an entirely new scene.
“Our job is to make an experience—to use the show as a tool and bring a wow-effect to the industry,” Denim Première Vision director Guglielmo Olearo said. “The 5-pocket jean is big business, but denim as a fashion item can be treated in novelty ways. We want to showcase that.”
Denim Première Vision presented Fall/Winter 19-20 trends in a factory-like set-up, from fabrics to finished products. The show also spotlighted eco-friendly fabrics and brands to create a sustainable wardrobe. The areas signaled a new outlook and sense of responsibility from all players in the supply chain.
“You have to build responsibility into collections and combine good processes with fashion,” Olearo said.
The show was the first edition of Denim Première Vision under the direction of Olearo, and it attracted 1,400 mid-to high-range fashion brands, designers, luxury labels, pure web players and jeanswear leaders. Olearo noted that the diversity of the group was evident based on attire—some attendees wore head-to-toe designer, while others wore 100 percent indigo.
Whereas the show in Parc Floral de Paris invited the community to connect and do business in a peaceful, natural environment, Olearo said the next edition of Denim Première Vision set to take place in the heart of London will invigorate a new local flavor and vibe. The show, which will be held Dec. 5-6 at the Old Truman Brewery, will capture the fashion, art and cultural scene of buzzing East London.
From trade show formats to innovations, the denim industry is inspired by newness. Denim Première Vision was a hotbed of new concepts, technology and branding. Here’s a look at some of the buzz from the show floor.
The mill formerly known as Tavex is starting a new chapter in its 172-year history with a new brand identity and Fall/Winter 19-20 collection.
The Moroccan denim mill was reintroduced as Evlox at Denim Première Vision, a reframed identity that addresses the mill’s focus on innovation and intends to help distinguish it from previous owners and companies with the Tavex name, Evlox CEO Luis Aguiar, explained. Starting immediately, all products and communications from the mill will come under the new moniker.
“We needed to display outwardly what we already are inside,” Aguiar said. “We sincerely believe that excellence and evolution move the world, and we want our new name to reflect this, without relinquishing what is most important in this company, tradition and essence, as we continue to be the oldest active denim producer in the market.”
For Evlox, its new name and look reaffirms its commitment to creating sustainable, traceable and innovative fabrics for its more than 3,000 customers in 50 countries.
For Fall/Winter 19-20, the mill introduced 15 new product lines that tap into current market trends. E-Vintage includes vintage looks from the 1960s to the 1980s in lighter than expected weights. Prestigia offers luxury fabrics with a delicate resin layer which adds shine and color to denim. The fabrics are intended for bespoke tailoring, rather than washing. The Raw Roots collection includes unwashed denim straight from the roll in the denim mill. Stabilizing agents applied to the fabric during weaving and finishing creates a stiff, starch-like handle.
‘One fabric, nine colors’ serves as the basis for US Group’s new Color Story concept. The collection aims to solve a common retail problem: the customer finds a favorite pair of jeans for their body shape and buys multiple colors of the style but they don’t fit the same as the original pair.
The Color Story collection offers one fabric with the same yarn and weave throughout that can be overdyed nine different colors, spanning faded black and pure indigo with red casts, to brighter vintage blues.
Rizwan Asim, US Group general manager of marketing and sales, said the line offers brands flexibility to adjust their inventory, allows them to buy closer to season and lowers their costs, as they can buy one fabric rather than multiple. Additionally, Asim said the overdye process requires fewer washes, reducing the amount of water and chemicals used to make the jean.
Bluelogy presented Water Glide Technology (WGT), a silicon-based water repellent solvent and treatment technology that can be applied to denim fabric and finished products. The technology serves the demand for performance-driven denim that can withstand the elements.
WGT can be applied to artificial and natural fibers. When applied, the technology coats the three-dimensional micro surface of fabric. WGT treated fabrics maintains pre-existing breathability traits and does not impact the color, hand-feel or appearance of the original fabric.
Kilim Denim is among the first denim companies in Turkey and it was a key player in the development of G-Star Raw’s “Raw for the Ocean” denim with yarn containing recycled ocean plastic. However, it has remained under the radar compared to today’s marketing standards.
The mill aims to change this season with a collection that speaks to social changes in society and repositions the mill as source for creative and innovative design. For Fall/Winter 19-20, Kilim worked with garment designers to showcases its fabrics in new capsules that cater to modern day lifestyles.
“It is the same quality fabrics, but we’re changing the packaging,” Kilim marketing manager Dilek Erik said.
In Workwear, the mill presents timeless medium and heavy weight fabrics—both rigid and comfort stretch—with natural finishes in a female empowering range of garments inspired by women’s 1940s factory uniforms. The fabrics, available in indigo, grey and black, are suited for baggy jean jackets and boyfriend jeans.
Kilim’s unisex story, GenderFree, includes stretch and super-stretch fabrics for men and women. The light to medium weight denim is overdyed and coated to create various looks. In Re-Create, the mill breaks up and reassembles products made with organic and BCI fabrics as well as recycled cotton and polyester. The capsule presented unique examples of recycled product design.
Weekenders, a range of baggy and comfortable fabrics with a sport-inspired texture, is the mill’s response to active lifestyles. Kilim captured the aesthetic with denim jogging pants, sweatshirts, T-shirts and shorts that could be worn for daily life and for working out.
Trims supplier YKK offered new ways for brands to add a touch of fashion to their denim. Christine Zhang, YKK key account manager, said brands are interested this season in high shine hardware with a CD-inspired ring effect achieved by laser, and color lacquer for bright colors. The trim manufacturer also presented a range of translucent plastic pastel buttons based on the look of milky vintage glass.
A truly sustainable jean considers every detail, down to the zipper tape. YKK launched its new environmentally friendly zipper called Natulon. The product is produced from recycled plastic materials, which are broken into pieces, reproduced as pellets, and finally yarn to make the sustainable zipper tape.
The company also presented a lyocell fiber zipper made from Tencel fiber yarn tape. The 100 percent Tencel fabric provides a smooth touch for consumers with sensitives skin, absorbs moisture and dries faster than YKK standard cotton zippers, plus it reduces the growth of bacteria. Additionally, the fabric resists wrinkles and shrinkage.
The zippers complement YKK’s hardware with sustainable finishing. Items in the collection—buttons and rivets—achieve on-trend finishes but use up to 66 percent fewer chemicals, 89 percent less water, 46 percent less electricity and 64 percent less thermal energy than traditional finishing processes.