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Candiani and Valstar Bring a Modern Twist to Italian Heritage Design

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A new collaboration positions Italy’s textile history at the forefront.

Italian denim mill Candiani Denim, which has been a staple in the industry for decades, teamed with Valstar, a contemporary luxury house with similar clout in the men’s outerwear space, on a micro collection that pays homage to the generations-old institutions.

The “Not for Gentlemen” collection consists of just four expertly crafted jackets available in two core silhouettes: a traditional heritage chore coat and Valstar’s signature Valstarino flight jacket, the latter of which was originally created by Valstar in 1935 and inspired by the A1 flight jacket issued to American pilots.

The collection further celebrates history, as three out of the four jackets are made with Candiani’s SL7276 Sioux Preshrunk selvedge fabric, which uses Candiani’s 72 Warp originally designed 30 years ago by then-owner Gianluigi Candiani. The Sioux is one of Candiani’s signature colors, featuring a rich and brilliant indigo shade with a red cast.

Candiani Denim and Valstar teamed on a micro collection of chore coats and bomber jackets that pay homage to Italian heritage designs.

Not for Gentlemen collection

But while the styles are traditional, the production methods are all modern. The collection uses Indigo Juice, Candiani’s solution for easy fading that makes it easier for indigo to wash down, in turn reducing by 15 percent the use of water and energy in the dyeing process. It also uses V-Sizing, a vegetable sizing compound that’s 100 percent biodegradable, non-toxic and replaces all hazardous chemicals used during dyeing. Both styles are available in indigo and ecru colorways.

Candiani Denim and Valstar teamed on a micro collection of chore coats and bomber jackets that pay homage to Italian heritage designs.

Not for Gentlemen collection

The collaboration dropped at the right time, as chore jackets—especially heritage designs that celebrate craftsmanship and carry with them a sense of escapism—are growing increasingly popular in the post-pandemic world. Predictive analytics firm Trendalytics noted earlier this year that these types of versatile pieces continue to garner searches.

The limited-edition collection is exclusively available at the Candiani Denim Store in Milan, and online on Candiani and Valstar’s e-commerce sites, and ranges from $475-$596.

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