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Pure Denim Brings Bemberg Fabrics to Pitti Uomo

Denim made with Bemberg by Asahi Kasei is getting the Pitti Uomo treatment.  

Italian denim mill Pure Denim will bow a collection of seven fabrics made with the regenerated cellulose fiber at the premium men’s trade show. Called “Blue di Cupro,” the fabrics will range from 100 percent Bemberg to blends with cotton and wool.  

Bemberg is made from cotton linter, a pre-consumer material obtained from the manufacturing process of cottonseed oil from oil mills in India, Brazil, Japan and the U.S. The cotton linter is refined and dissolved in a proprietary closed-loop process to produce pure regenerated fiber. Because Bemberg is naturally derived, it is biodegradable and compostable if buried in soil.  

Blue di Cupro fabrics are dyed with Pure Denim’s proprietary Smart Indigo technology. The dye system uses a chemical-free production that involves water, indigo pigments and electricity. 

Yarns are treated with NaturalReco, a 100 percent natural product derived from industrial food processing waste that protects yarns during processing. The organic substance serves as a substitute to polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), the residue of which forms microplastics that are released into water during washing.  

Fabrics are enhanced with Pure Denim’s Eco Sonic ultrasound finishing technology which brings “significant reduction of water used, increased aesthetic features and controlled discoloration,” the company said. 

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Sustainability is a driver of innovation for Pure Denim. At Denim Première Vision in November, the mill presented the first denim fabric made with Xlance, an “eco elastomer” that promises long-lasting sustainable stretch. Previously used in workwear, swimwear and shirting, Xlance enhances fabrics with “excellent resistance” to aggressive chemical agents, bleaching, ozone fading, stonewashing and distressing.

The additive is part of Pure Denim’s Infinity collection which includes fabrics made with Good Earth Cotton, an Australian regenerative farming program, and Smart Indigo, which is free of hazardous chemicals. The entire collection utilizes FibreTrace’s digital transparency technology.

“In the last 10 years we have revolutionized the denim processes: new technologies, natural polymers, smart fibers in addition to constantly studying new technologies through various businesses,” said Luigi Caccia, Pure Denim co-founder. “Pure Denim has successfully reduced the amount of chemicals and water in the process of making jeans and we continually seek to find new opportunities. We have found Bemberg to perfectly fit our philosophy and our commitment for premium solutions in terms of quality and respect for the contemporary consumer, environment, ocean and animals.”

Blue di Cupro

Along with elevating the Bemberg’s profile, the Blue di Cupro collection underscores the value of collaborations in the supply chain. 

“It is not anymore just about having customers, but about creating partnership to give customized premium answers to the market. In the last few years, we all have learned that only together we can activate concrete change achieving contemporary targets and success,” said Junshu Furusawa, sales manager and board member of Asahi Kasei Fibers Italia.

Pitti Uomo takes place Jan. 10-13, 2023 at Florence’s Fortezza da Basso.