A new joint project between finishing technology firm Jeanologia and specialty chemicals manufacturer Archoma takes aim at one of denim fabric finishing’s most water-intensive and pollutant processes.
The duo’s eco-conscious denim cleaning alternative combines Archroma’s aniline-free Pure Indigo Icon dyeing system with Jeanologia’s water-free and chemical-free G2 Dynamic finishing technology during the mercerizing stage of jean production.
Mercerizing, which takes place after weaving, traditionally consists of treating the fabric with caustic soda to obtain a more lustrous, flat, and less reddish blue and black denim. Multiple highly water-intensive washings are required to restore optimal fabric pH and remove unfixed dyestuff and any undesired deposits or impurities from the fabric. One of the impurities released in the washing process is aniline, a substance that is classified as a category 2 carcinogen and considered toxic to aquatic life.
Archroma and Jeanologia’s solution, however, allows brands to create aniline-free denim, and improve the final aspect of the fabric through an alternative ozone cleaning treatment. The process can also be used with additional Archroma coloration systems such as Indigo Reflection, which behaves like indigo but has a more efficient application process, and Pure Undertones, which applies a layer of color under the indigo.
Jean-Pierre Inchauspe, Jeanologia business director of G2 Dynamic, said the partnership “is another step to change traditional, more polluting and water consuming processes in the textile industry for new ones using technology.” The goal, he added, is improve the production stages before finishing to help companies be more efficient and competitive with increased productivity and a high-quality sustainable product.
The companies joined forces last year to launch Pad-Ox G2 Cold, a water-saving dyeing process at room temperature for denim. By using cold processing, companies can consume less water and energy than traditional benchmark fabric-finishing processes.
Umberto Devita, business development manager at Archroma’s “Competence Center for Denim and Casual Wear,” said the company’s partnership with Jeanlogia alignns with its principles for a sustainable future.
“[It is] very inspiring to work with a partner who shares the same values of developing efficient new process,” he said.