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Denim Premiere Vision Reinforces Responsible Design in London

For international trade show Denim Première Vision, London was a prime location to introduce its equal focus on fashion and sustainability.

The trade show, which announced it would return to London in December 2019 following a June 2019 show in Milan, offered a balanced program for forward-thinking attendees and exhibitors researching new ways to make stylish, covetable fashion in better and more responsible ways.

The show dedicated the first day of seminars to fashion, including a robust line-up of Spring/Summer 2020 trends and silhouettes and the latest intel about streetwear. The second day was devoted to the sustainable steps brands and mills are taking to become more responsible and circular.

That focus on eco alternatives is part of Denim Première Vision’s initiative called Smart Creation. Launched five years ago, Denim Première Vision director Guglielmo Olearo said the goal for Smart Creation has been to reinforce “responsible design” as “fashionable design.”

And while the supply chain continues to better itself each season with new water and energy saving solutions, Olearo said the consumer is the key instrument in helping to drive change.

“We’re seeing the market reach a certain maturity,” he said. “Sustainability is a necessity, it’s not just an additional marketing tool. That’s why we decided this year to dedicate one full day to sustainability because we think that today sustainability is as important as fashion.”

Along with hosting panel discussions on sustainability and circularity, the show presented eco-responsible fabrics from mills alongside final garments by sustainable brands like Mud Jeans, HNST and Kings of Indigo.

The concept, Olearo noted, helps to verify that sustainability is a reality. “People have to keep in mind that if they want to be responsible, you have to be responsible from the first sketch and think about sustainability from A to Z,” he said.

Highlights from the Smart Creation area included Solvay’s Amni Soul Eco, the world’s first polyamide 6.6 yarn with enhanced biodegradability. The fiber biodegrades in about five years in a well-maintained landfill.

Advance Denim presented its new fabric dyed using Archroma’s aniline-free indigo, Denisol Pure Indigo, which offers a non-toxic way to produce the traditional, iconic indigo blue that consumers associate with denim and jeans.

Sustainable trims were also highlighted, including Pellemela, a leather substitute made from 50 percent recycled apple fiber and 50 percent polyurethane. The apple-based material is available in 20 variations in a variety of thicknesses, textures and laser printings.

Awareness about the environment has reached its highest, but as Olearo pointed out, it’s also evident that denim is in a fashion cycle.

“Denim is becoming a fashionable outfit. We see more and more that brands and designers are taking risks and interpreting denim in very different ways,” he said. “We know that a large part of the market is still the five-pocket jean, but we also see how denim is becoming a constant part in high-end and luxury collections.”

And the luxury players are coming to Denim Première Vision to dig deeper into denim.

“If you no longer consider denim as a marginal product in your collection, then you have to invest in the research and development,” Olearo added. “And there is no other place better than a trade show to get a full image of what is available in the market.”

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