From gorpcore to dopamine fashion, denim fit into the various themes explored in Fall/Winter 22-23 men’s and co-ed collections.
Kenzo, now led by Japanese streetwear designer Nigo, struck on a cool and fresh look in Paris with big checks, varsity motifs and printed suiting. The show, almost eclipsed by the attendance of Ye and Julia Fox clad in matching double-denim ensembles, featured unisex denim pieces like boxy tunic tops, wide-leg jeans and shackets with white poppy flower prints and railroad stripes overalls. Raw denim separates worn together double as casual suit. Contrast yellow stitching adds a youthful color pop to the dark denim, while others are embroidered with red poppy flowers.
Rose motifs and two-tone patchwork added a cottagecore vibe to Etro’s jeans. Craft, in general, a key theme in F/W 22-23 denim collections. Cross-stitch embroidery decorates Dhruv Kapoor’s “zero waste” cropped denim jacket and jeans. Cropped jeans with wide crochet trim, as well as Trucker jackets with shearling collars, added a wintery aspect to Alanui’s classic Trucker jackets.
Children of Discordance decorated pieced denim shirts and jeans with smiley face and peace sign patches. This youthful vibe was echoed in Doublet’s collection of popcore-textured jeans, cropped jackets with sprayed heart prints and jeans with deep cuffs. Meanwhile, Loewe made good with dopamine-inducing jeans adorned with metal “Hello” and “Smile” ornaments.
Kiton and Brunello Cucinelli were among the traditional Italian men’s wear brands that incorporated straight fit jeans into their office-friendly assortments. The clean, fuss-free washes complicated the labels’ tobacco-hued corduroy jackets and tweed blazers.
Wales Bonner and Opening Ceremony vouched for Ye-approved double-denim ensembles with workwear vibes. Vintage washes added depth to Winnie and Y/Project’s gritty denim pieces, while Louis Vuitton presented monogramed denim pieces melded with vintage-looking tapestries.
On the other end of the color spectrum, Wooyoungmi opted for a brighter indigo cast, which popped against city-ready black puffer coats and knitwear. Jeans with rips and high-contrast washes were woven into Dsquared2’s gorpcore collection.
Jeans with front seaming details was seen in collections by Liberal Youth Ministry, JW Anderson and Valette Studio. The twisted and ripped seams of Jordanluca’s extra-long jeans exposed leg. Warped denim continued to be a popular theme for Y/Project, which featured several garments were artfully buttoned asymmetrically.
Loose silhouettes, however, was the most common theme in men’s denim. Hed Mayner presented wide-leg jeans with a layers and deep patch pockets. Bluemarble elevated baggy bottoms with intricate beadwork on the sides of legs. Kolor kept it cool with slouchy jeans and deconstructed pretty knits and Taakk added distressed textures to the surface of jeans.