The color choices of designers at London, Milan and Paris fashion weeks aligned once again, revealing three strong directions for Fall/Winter 2021-2022.
Though the joyful and optimistic undertones expressed through color in Spring/Summer ’21 collections—the first full-fledged season designers created during quarantine—were still present, the new palette was notably more direct and exuded a desire to get back to business.
Positive Negative
Case in point: The virtual runways featured crowd-pleasing black-and-white combinations aplenty. Designers delved into monochrome looks by focusing on familiar yet graphic patterns such as vertical stripes, lozenge and circles of various sizes.
The mostly black-and-white Valentino collection offered a wardrobe of wearable separates such as white ruffle blouses and button-down shirts that paired back with black circle skirts and capelets. The collection’s monochrome “V” print and black-and-white diamond pattern—used as an allover print on outerwear and echoed in spliced knits—were among the boldest, however.
Black-and-white lozenge shapes were echoed in collections by Palomo Spain as well. Polka dots, hearts, giraffe prints and Dalmatian-like spots gave Carolina Herrera plenty of runway to experiment with black and white, particularly on billowing silhouettes like long pleated skirts and wide-leg pants. Issey Miyake supersized polka dots into abstraction on tent dresses made with puckered fabrics.
Loring, Daniela Gregis and Annakiki were among the labels adding checkerboard prints to blouses, bodysuits and dresses. Maggie Marilyn broke up the pattern with a random smattering of hearts.
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And simple two-tone looks spoke to the color combination’s enduring style. Brands like Loewe and Loro Piana practiced restraint with pared back monochrome dresses and coats.
Gold Rush
If the black-and-white trend was a lesson in subtle yet impactful fashion, the rush of gold looks seen on the runway was a creative release for designers.
Though the number of events that would call for a floor-length gold gowns has been whittled down to zilch, fashion houses are designing with a glimmer of hope that the Roaring Twenties 2.0 is just around the corner.
Alberta Ferretti and Moschino were among the brands that vouched for red carpet glamour with textural gold gowns. Giambattista Valli stayed true to its pretty aesthetic with pink-and-green flora decorating metallic gold long-sleeve column dresses. Huishan Zhang went more minimalistic with high-neck A-line dress swathed in gold sequins.
Versace created an empire waistline by belting its gold mini dress with a monochromatic belt, while Andrew Gn’s gold mini frock with shoulder pads was balanced with gold croc-embossed knee-high boots.
Balmain, Valentino and Chanel opted for metallic gold outerwear, making gold a viable option for daytime.
Teal Appeal
What would a fall season be without a palette of lush jewel tones? The resounding favorite for Fall/Winter 21-22 is teal and variants of the rich blue-green hue.
Cool-girl brand Alberta Ferretti effortlessly mixed teal with shades of green across a wardrobe of staples like leather jackets, turtleneck knits, shirt dresses and suede accessories.
Christian Wijnants and Tom Ford layered teal floral prints. Teal velvet added depth and luster to Lanvin’s galactic men’s looks that toe the line between loungewear and evening attire.
Designers also had the same idea for teal ruffled dresses, yet they interpreted the concept in unique ways.
Christian Dior created an ombre effect with tiered tulle ruffles in various shades of green and blue. Red Valentino styled its ruffled and gathered dress with monochromatic sneakers.
Ester Manas brought a touch of disco with metallic fabrics and off-the-shoulder spaghetti straps, while Anrealage brought a level of sweetness with its short-sleeve teal dress decorated with row after row of satin ruffles.