An injection of color is coming to men’s fashion.
Monochromatic designs embolden Spring/Summer 2023-2024 collections at Men’s Fashion Week in London, Milan and Paris.
Cool and collected, cobalt blue emerged as a core color for casual and dress.
Bluemarble’s skate-take on its namesake color centered on cargo pockets, low-slung webbed belts and sequin-embellished cuffs. Blue leather jackets and low-rise bootcut pants added a Y2K edge to Mowalola’s comic-inspired collection.
Canaku also used black-and-white webbed grommet belts to break up its blue retro workwear-inspired set. It was also the color of choice for the Italian brand’s double-breasted suit, punctuated with novelty buttons.
JW Anderson’s torn denim set revealed oversized barcodes. Kiton kept it classic with a blue zip-up jacket. Versace opted for oversized blue suiting and workwear basics over skin-revealing bodysuits.
Arturo Obegero explored the sensual side of blue with sheer button-down shirts and coordinating trousers. Jeanne Friot presented genderless bomber jackets and shorts made with gathered satin. Marcelo Burlon County of Milan delivered a luxe loungewear look with drapey robes and drawstring pants.
Warm shades of orange heated up collections.
Hermès adapted its signature shade of orange, offering summery tangerine-tinged knits with wavy patterns. Moschino also opted for sorbet-like hues for elevated loungewear, and Issey Miyake applied it to cozy ribbed knit one-piece.
Embossed logos decorated Louis Vuitton’s bright orange workwear-inspired denim set and coordinating handbag. Juicy hues added a beachy vibe to Liberal Youth Ministry’s bleached orange shorts and ombre hoodie. 44 Label Group embraced the heat with flame-printed tops.
Orange tonal prints and dye effects enhanced the relax styling in collections by Etro, Tod’s and Federico Cina. Meanwhile, Egonlab, Casablanca, Brioni and Erdem presented orange suiting.
Rusted hues offered an alternative to brown, which has been a piping hot color for Gen Z. Zegna matched resort shorts with painterly patterns with rust loose-fitting trousers. Burnt orange added a fresh take to Etudes’ monochromatic safari-inspired sets and Dries Van Noten mixed orange and brown satin.
Designers also explored the sunnier side of the color wheel.
Yellow refreshed Marcelo Burlon County of Milan’s robe-like jackets and matching trousers and Etro’s suiting. Glossy coatings added to waxy effect to Zenga’s boxy tops.
Yellow and black added a sporty look to the runway. Versace presented yellow cutout bodysuits with black trousers. Yellow tops and flip-flops bookended Ambush’s baggy black cargo pants. JW Anderson applied scribbled portraits to its sunny yellow tops, while Plein Sport featured yellow abstract graphics to its black separates.
Pantone’s 2021 Colors of the Year for 2021, Ultimate Gray and Illuminating, made a strong appearance as well. The combination was used for Zegna’s sweater vests, Missoni’s sweater and cardigan sets, Louis Vuitton’s fauna pattern tops and pants, Rick Owens’ snake-printed bomber jackets and Steven Passaro’s modern-take on summer suiting. MSGM paired a black and yellow floral knits hoodie with loose gray trousers.