What’s next for denim will be on display at Denim Première Vision May 17-18 at the Arena Berlin, where more than 80 exhibitors will present their new concepts.
Rivet caught up with Manon Mangin, Première Vision’s denim product manager, before the show to find out how mills and trim suppliers are shaping their Fall/Winter 23-24 collections for the growing pool of consumers who want to look good while shopping responsibly.
Here are the trends and themes to look for at the show.
Rivet: How are mills responding to the demand for looser-fitting jeans?
Manon Mangin: Loose fits have been on the rise since the past season, and it continues for F/W 23-24 with lyocell and viscose blends settling into compositions. These two fibers are more present and give suppleness and ease to denim fabrics and products, while being mixed with recycled cotton. What’s new is that exhibitors are looking for new handles and we see some great blends of lyocell with hemp—an attempt to reduce the consumption of cotton and giving some innovative and unexpected feeling. In terms of finished products, we see a rising number of loose jackets and pants in medium weights.
Rivet: What are some key products that will be important for F/W 23-24?
MM: Something that caught our eyes in the new collections from our denim exhibitors is [a new sense of] fantasy in pants. That are made with graphic and geometric patterned jacquards that oscillate between squares and diamond shapes. [These plays on construction are usually used for jackets.] Sometimes they have an ornamental detail. Other fancy motifs are elaborated in laser prints and patches, revealing bold typographies or vegetal and floral patterns.
Rivet: What is having the biggest influence on denim now?
MM: I do believe after the few years we have been living through that social movements are impacting how we perceive fashion and mainly how we consume. We can’t ignore the environmental protests happening all over the world and denim fashion has already seen a big turnaround on this subject for a few years now. It’s important [for the industry to] match the demand, especially from younger generations. They are the ones building the future; they are today and tomorrow’s consumers. The industry needs to understand their needs and desires and be able to respond to them in the right way.
Rivet: Do you see any emerging themes in sustainable denim?
MM: This season has clearly put the focus on traceability. It’s a word that has been on everyone’s mouth since a couple of seasons ago, but it’s the first time that we see it this clearly in our exhibitors’ collections. They want to be transparent and are putting all their effort into this direction by adding QR codes to their products and collaborating with blockchain [companies]. This way, we can identify the origin of a fiber, the location of the cotton field, the environmental impact of the product and the type of finishing. They even map the journey of the fabric from the cotton field to the weaving mill, to the manufacturer. We also see a lot of developments made from regenerative agriculture.
Rivet: Are there any trends in trims and accessories?
MM: We are very happy about the trims and accessories offer for the show as we have a great selection of exhibitors with innovative developments. We have an incredible offer of eco responsible products like bio-based silicone, bio-sourced polymers and hangtags made from recycled paper. Recycling is also a factor in components with companies taking it to the next level with items made from industry waste. We see companies regenerating leftover denim, cotton and leather to create buttons, ribbon and labels. Fantasy also finds its way in accessories with a real play on surfaces and textures. Labels are sporting tufted and furry effects, loose threads and felted looks made from recycled polyester.