The Netherlands is not only a hub for denim innovation. The country’s minimalistic approach to design serves as the inspiration behind Fashion Snoops’ Fall/Winter 20-21 women’s wear trend story, “Pastoe.”
As one of the four trend stories Melissa Moylan, Fashion Snoops vice president, creative, outlined during a webinar with Informa last week, Pastoe takes cues from the region’s ceramics and “modern heritage” furniture design based on simplistic shapes and need-base function.
To capture the craft element of these goods, Moylan said the story uses retro orange, golden yellow, brown and rust red—a departure from the deep cherry reds in past seasons. Shades of olive and artificial green enhance the palette’s ’70s vibe, while neutrals like sand, mushroom and pale peach add lightness.
Patterns that have a feeling of “artistic abstraction” live here, like sketched checks and medleys of patterns. Meanwhile, stripes and mod-inspired dots are a nod to bygone eras.
High-rise straight-fit rigid jeans with a button-fly fits into this retro narrative. Other key denim looks include relaxed, straight-leg cropped jeans with contrasting top stitching or high- and low-hem details, and the denim jacket, redone as a cropped utility style with oversized patch pockets.
Long lines are another major element in Pastoe’s new approach to minimalism, Moylan said. Button-less overcoats with sloped shoulders take on a duster shape, and tunics with extra-long sleeves are layered other long layers like midi dresses. The dress silhouette has been growing each season, she noted, but long-sleeves are a way to update it. Blazers also have an elongated fit and are a good companion piece to fitted rib knit turtleneck tops.
Pleated midi-length skirts and high-waisted culottes offer trans-seasonal options. But the key pant style is a slouchy, mid-rise silhouette that sits on the hips and has elongated legs so the fabric fall below the ankle. Consider plush materials like corduroy for the pants, Moylan noted.
Chelsea boots and slip-on shoes with a high vamp speak to Pastoe’s simplicity, while tall boots made with a collage of leathers and suede deliver a crafted feel. That handmade look is carried into mini handbags and knit scarves that feature alternating knit types.