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F/W 19-20 New York Fashion Week Denim Report

Novelty denim is gaining importance at New York Fashion Week.

For one, the outdoor market is flexing its influence. In John Elliott’s collection, denim silhouettes didn’t stray too far from the classics, but garments like slim jeans and jackets were refreshed with shades of mossy green, black/gray and terracotta with spray effects. The denim pieces were paired with padded jackets, bombers and matching joggers made with technical fabrics like iridescent nylon and tie-dye sweats made in collaboration with Caterpillar.

Black denim served as a foundation for Zadig & Voltaire’s cool-girl collection. White contrast stitching, seaming and exposed button-fly constructions updated slouchy washed black jeans. Some jeans sat low on the hips, tucked into cowboy boots, while denim western button-down shirts were spruced up with bow-ties.

Claudia Li downplayed exuberant accessories like bags with extra-long fringe and iridescent pink blouses with minimalistic denim. The dark wash pieces included a cocoon-like zip-front jacket, cuffed shorts and Moto jacket with clean lines.

Denim grounded Romeo Hunte’s imaginative collection of satin duffle coats, cobalt blue mink robes and strapless trench coats. The New York-based designer extended the length of Trucker jackets with swaths of mink and layered swingy purple and coral fringe skirts over denim overalls. Standout pieces included a series of men’s trench coats spliced with panels of black and indigo jean jackets.

Jamie Wei Huang and Proenza Schouler each took a similar approach to denim outerwear with hybrid creations. Wei Huang impressed with a plaid and denim coat with an oversized lapel, flap pockets and unfinished hems. Meanwhile, Proenza Schouler continued to pursue acid wash in a trench coat with a denim bodice.

Malaysian designer Zang Toi served cuteness in the form of mini dungaree dresses and denim tunics. With Donald Trump Jr. and former step-mom Marla Maples seated in the front row, the models strutted in the denim garb and wholesome brand new Chuck Taylors.

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Interest in denim skirts picked up, too. Linder trimmed a jersey wrap skirt with thick bands of denim. Kate Spade showcased a flirty paneled skirt in its relaunched runway collection.

The boldest impression came from John John Denim. The Brazilian men’s and women’s brand made its New York Fashion Week debut with fellow Brazilian and former Victoria’s Secret model Alessandra Ambrosio closing the show dressed head-to-toe in metallic blue denim—a look that was also carried through to men’s Trucker jackets, puffer coats and skinny jeans.

The collection offered an apocalyptic take on denim with utilitarian flight suits with leather and zipper pocket detailing, cargo jeans and deconstructed long anoraks. Acid wash denim bustiers, cropped jean jackets and short shorts added sex appeal.

And in true Brazilian style, the brand’s designer João Foltran emphasized color. Foltran used strips of colorful leather to create grid-like patterns on dark rinse button-down shirts, trousers and coats. Spray paint, watercolor and tie-dye effects invited layers of color spanning golden yellow, green and purple, to aquatic shades of green, purple and blue.