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Gender Fluid Street Style Rules at Tokyo Fashion Week

If you want to know the direction streetwear is going next, check out the street style during Tokyo Fashion Week.

The streetwear mecca served up experimental fashion ditching the logo-driven styles that blanketed Milan and the man-tailored look favored by New Yorkers.

In Tokyo, street style was dark, gothic and a touch apocalyptic. Men and women shared silhouettes, with items like ’90s-style mock neck tees, cropped tops and black Dr. Martens footwear serving as the foundation to the new gender fluid look.

Men’s suiting crept into style. Trousers were worn wide and relaxed by both men and women, paired with oversized deconstructed jean jackets and bum bags. Women wore men’s shirting as tunics. Ties were dad-like with traditional print. Dickies’ two-tone cropped jacket and matching pants—worn with a shrunken tie—exemplified the subversive look.

Slim leather jeans were ripped and pinned back with safety pins. Suede and leather vests and jackets with Western fringe added character, as did Frye’s iconic Engineer pull-on boot.

Furry coats with wolf motifs, skate pants and cargo pants smacked of ’90s nostalgia. Bucket hats remained a key finishing touch, but the week saw trapper hats and Kangol hats (worn backwards) on the up and up.

Meanwhile, straight leg jeans with deep cuffs and a denim kilt were among some of the sharper, classical looks during Tokyo Fashion Week.