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Kaltex Revisits the Seventies for Spring/Summer ’16

From new denim constructions, weights and washes to the steps global mills are taking to reduce impact, Rivet's SS23 In Season Look Book: Denim & Trims has everything you need to know for a successful denim season.

The relaxed, sun-kissed summer days of the Seventies served up a season’s worth of inspiration for Kaltex’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection. With the decade shaping up to be a prominent theme for the season across all categories, Kaltex designer Cori Olson expects to see tomboy looks, high waist silhouettes and white snap up a piece of the denim market share.

In the company’s Birkin Style collection, the slouchy boyfriend jeans’ popularity in the mass market gives way to slimmer versions for next spring. Boyfriend styles are sharpened with a defined crease, a higher waist and slimmer legs. Classic shades of blue in marbled medium to light washes are readily available. Likewise, rigid pencil skirts with crease lines capture a vintage look. Heavy deconstruction, front pockets, buttons and patchwork—which Olson said spans subtle to handwork stitching to laser—add a touch of workwear character to the throwback look.

The retro trend also calls for more turquoise, Olson said, “As the shade picks up more momentum in the mass market, you’ll see it turn more blue green.”

Blue-collar workwear stories, which Olson said is French-inspired, brings a new tone of indigo with a purple cast, too. “It really started in Japan and has trickled down,” Olson said of the French trend. Chore coats, boxy silhouettes and exaggerated overalls deliver a bold sartorial statement, while the patch pockets and washes contrasted with herringbone and chambray weave patches offer more subtly.

Black and grey are prominent, as well. In fact, Olson said black and gray remain go-to colors for spring, despite their wintery roots. “In the last few years, there has been a lot of variations of gray, but this spring you’ll see more black black new ways,” she noted. For example, blue and gray jeans are embellished with black fill deconstruction.

For a lighter look, white, tinted white and natural, pure white are trending up for men and women in spring, Olson reported. In Kaltex’s Monochrome story, white denim is toughened up with rip and repair, voluminous shapes and barely there tints.

Kaltex keeps the summery vibe flowing with earthy red and mustard shades of yellow for men in its Summer Standard range. For women, faded peach fills the waning demand for color. Some light ripstop with a drawstring waist is brought in from the athletic category; however, Olson noted that most denim in the collection calls for super clean, or super worn-in designs.

Think, a mix of rigid and stretch with retro twill lines, or jeans that feel like they’re 10-years-old, Olson said. “And this is where you have mid-length cut-off shorts in stretch and rigid,” she added, noting the length is another tomboy influence buyers should be watching.

The high-waisted, skinny jean is another silhouette making a blip on the radar. “It goes back to that classic ’70s look. Slim, super light and cropped for the summer,” Olson explained. That playful, sporty look is reverberated in Kaltex’s range of softwear, where super high stretch and a soft hand rule. Here, Olson sees some room for acid-wash, which customers are increasingly accepting as a fun fashion item.

The company is also finding success among women’s designers with non-stretch chambray. Olson said the breezy pajama-like material is a new way to look at joggers and the ongoing demand for comfort. The fabrication also adds a new level of comfort to the workwear theme.