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Denim with Commercial Edge Lines Up at London Fashion Week

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London Fashion Week (LFW) is renowned for fostering fresh talent, and many are exploring their creativity through denim. Fall/Winter 22-23 denim designs, however, were notably wearable in comparison to the fantastical designs of marquee designers like Simone Rochas, Richard Quinn and Harris Reed.

Huishan Zhang zeroed in on the trend for wide-leg jeans as the laidback companion to strapless crystal-embellished tunic tops. The designer also presented a denim drop-waist party dress with a ruffled hem.

Rejina Pyo keyed into pandemic trends for comfort and versatile office attire. A pair of straight leg, button-fly jeans was tucked casually into tall boots. A denim suit featured subtle shading and a roomy fit. For a pop of dopamine, a washed-down lavender jacket and jeans played with workwear constructions and seams.

Vintage floral prints added romance to Molly Goddard’s light-wash jeans. The fabric was also used for midi- and mini-skirts. The juxtaposition of delicate prints with long and chunky frays nodded to the collection’s eclectic ’80s vibe.

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Ahluwalia made its LFW debut with a collection exploring creative director Priya Ahluwalia’s connection to both Bollywood and Nollywood. The designs are a “love letter to the films that informed her youth, placing them on a shiny pedestal for all to enjoy.” The result is jean jackets and slouchy straight-fit jeans with laser-print motifs that represent Ahluwalia’s cross-continental heritage, combined with patchwork and piped details.

Laser-printed denim was a part of Conner Ives’ ode to ’90s fashion. A shacket and low-rise jeans with cut waistbands featured an abstract design that highlighted the subtle shading effects achievable with the sustainable technology.

Stefan Cooke’s cable knit-printed jean jacket offered one of the most whimsical denim offerings from LFW, while Vivienne Westwood’s deconstructed logo was laser printed onto high-waisted jeans.

Powder blue, faux-fur boots and fuzzy knits softened House of Sunny’s collection. Oversized jeans featured Tetris-like patchwork in various shades of indigo. A pair of blue jeans featured color contrasting paneling and tonal embroidery.

Patchwork and contrasting fabrics added dimension to Nicholas Daley’s denim jackets, jeans and skirts that exuded ’60s and ’70s rock’n’roll coolness.

In a collection dedicated to his father, Daniel W. Fletcher combined ’70s silhouettes and football club themes with jeans and jackets made from denim scraps sewn into checkerboard patterns. Sports were also the inspiration for David Koma’s collection that spanned rugby-striped mini dresses to pleated denim mini-skirts, bustier tops and relaxed jean jackets.