London Fashion Week was home to Fall/Winter 2023-2024 denim collections with a rebellious spirit.
Mowalola’s bootleg New York Yankee and MoMA merch was almost overshadowed by cutout cargo jeans with second waistbands that hovered just above the knees. A miniskirt featured a dip-front waist, while a low-rise maxi skirt was styled with a denim zip-up jacket and bralette.
Romanian designer Ancuta Sarca collaborated with Lee to repurpose its deadstock denim into bralettes and skirts. While the top block of Nensi Dojaka’s jeans was traditional light-wash denim, the legs were lace and sheer. Asai’s denim dress featured a shredded skirt with loose, feather-like threads.
Though bold color has been an unstoppable force in recent seasons, when it came to denim, designers in London stayed true to its indigo roots.
Eudon Choi kept it serious with a dark indigo pintucked denim shirt dress and knee-length pleated skirt. JW Anderson went brighter with French blue jeans and shredded long shorts. The washed-out indigo shades of the early 2000s underscored the coolness of House of Sunny’s laced maxi skirt, jeans and tunic.
Ahluwalia’s piece-constructed hooded mini dress and fishtail skirt swirled around bodies, while tie-dye effects refreshed Trucker jackets. KWK’s layered looks were a mash-up of different washes. Contrasting light- and dark-wash panels enhanced the shape of Labrum’s cropped jacket and front-slit midi skirt. Dark hems outlined Natasha Zink’s collection of bleached denim jeans, trench coats and maxi skirts.