Nomadic lifestyles are influencing denim fits and proportions for Fall/Winter 20-21.
At Denim Première Vision in Milan Tuesday, Lucia Rosin, head of design for the Italian creative studio consultancy, Meidea, described how the popularity of travel, wellness and sport among millennial and Gen Z consumers are collectively shaping denim fits for the new season.
From an emphasis on lightweight layering pieces, to fabrics enhanced with performance attributes, here’s a look at Rosin’s seven fit themes for F/W 20-21.
In “Multiply,” the emphasis is on simple simplicity, bubble shapes, amplified volume and gender neutral designs. Volume and genderless, Rosin said, allows designers to explore new paths. And new materials allow designers to create new shapes.
Key garments include hooded egg-shaped coats, indigo knot pullovers, XXL vests, loose overalls and balloon chinos. The denim garments, Rosin noted, are true shapeless bubbles accented with shape-altering details like drawstring hems and tops with customizable sleeves. In general, Rosin urged designers to pay special attention to sleeves—be it adding volume, drawstring or cutouts at the elbow or shoulder.
“We don’t need to buy more things, but we need to collect experiences,” Rosin said. As a result, consumers are spending more time in transit. Here, material mixing like waterproof nylon and cotton denim combine to make strong looks like lightweight, packable outerwear.
The goal, Rosin explained, is to create pieces that are useful for “onion dressing” or the act of peeling off layers as needed. Items include seamless tees, windbreaker pullovers and long denim skirts. Quilting updates a wide-sleeve denim kimono, while a soft fabric belt allows for an adjustable fit. Utility pockets are necessary to keep hands free. Garments, she added, need to be both durable and easy to pack.
In “24H,” contemporary layering is paired with elevated normcore pieces like low rise chinos, pleated denim skirts and double breasted blazers. Voluminous items like balloon sleeve shirts return, juxtaposed to crisp straight shorts. Androgyny comes into play with neck ties, tunics and pin striping, as well as an emphasis on black and indigo combinations.
Rosin sees this as a return of timeless style and design that is long-lasting and ageless. This is especially important for denim consumers in professional settings.
The wellness craze shows no signs of stopping and Rosin expects to see denim gain more health benefiting attributes in the future. In the meantime, relaxed fits that have a soft minimalism help soothe the mind.
In “Slowmotion,” Rosin described a theme that applies a calming pastel color palette and watery digital to extremely relaxed silhouettes and cocoon-like loungewear. Key items include blanket cardigans, belted robe jackets and drawstring pants with convertible pant legs. Slippers, she added, may even be worn as day wear. Here, fibers like Tencel, modal and linen/cotton blends help tell the story.
“Routility” examines how daily routines can be more efficient with utility fashion—but with an elevated twist. “There’s a more elegant way to approach pockets and function,” Rosin said.
Key items include denim joggers, hybrid jackets that combine bombers with Truckers and mom jean cargo pants. The garments are cleaned up with jacquards, heritage tweed denim, wool/cotton blends, gingham check. Micro geometric patterns and contrasting tweeds add visual interest.
Inspired by streetwear, “Rootless” is a clash of decades and ideas. Trucker jackets reconstructed as a long coat, lightweight Tencel denim mid-length skirts and cropped dungarees are among the key fits, as well as classic American casual wear like the 5-pocket jean.
With a “rebellious spirit,” Rosin says the trend story allows designers to play with repurposed garments, recycled fabrics and DIY elements like tie-dye and crafted patches. Ultra-bright colors and bleached effects achieved through digital printing add wow factor, while fringe hems and metallic applications keep it youthful.
Technical features are prominent in “Expedition.” The trend story, which is rooted in adventure and independence, taps into the outdoor category by adopting straps, harnesses and quilted accessories.
Garments are wide, Rosin said, and built for layering. Protective egg shapes, reversible denim dungarees and military-inspired hood capes are among the key fits. Quilted denim patches add a cozy feel to cropped chino pants, as well as heavy denim shirts, polar fleece and bomber jackets with an icy palette.