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Mills Deliver Fabrics for Denim’s Current Fashion Cycle

Mills, trim suppliers and brands are taking full advantage of denim’s current fashion cycle. Denim Première Vision met the needs of denim pure players and fashion designers alike with five key fashion stories for the Fall/Winter 19-20 season. Designers’ creative concepts, silhouettes and use of trims finesse each theme, but the fashion begins with fabrics as mills introduce new weaving techniques, fiber blends and novelty finishing.

In Denim Première Vision’s Active Denim story, the focus was on blends of synthetic and natural materials that provide durability, protection against cold weather and most importantly, freedom of movement.

Fabrics span high-tech to traditional in this performance-inspired theme. Calik’s ultra-supple and dense double-face indigo serge provides high stretch and recovery properties. Eurotessile’s solid 13.5-ounce ring-ring yarn denim serves as an example of jeans designed to withstand extreme use and motor biking. Other fabrics, like A14 Denim’s 100 percent BCI denim take on thermal properties through classical quilting techniques.

Fantastical surfaces, monster-like furs and voluminous fabrics combine in Wild Denim, the season’s most whimsical and trend-driven concept. The trend is geared toward fashion labels experimenting with denim in their collections. The textures come alive with cocoon-like coats and classic jean jackets.

Soorty’s 100 percent cotton fabrics are revamped with a hairy texture achieved through uneven topstitching. Advanced Denim’s fabric with disheveled stripes in pure indigo is created through a weaving technique and is finished with a needle-punch that makes a multi-dimensional effect. Velcorex presented a voluminous velvet with exaggerated lines that mimic the hand feel and appearance of fur.

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In Extroverted Street, denim takes on a graphic and colorful appearance. Blue-on-blue patchwork dominates here, as well as contrasting colors and stitching, powerful jacquards and whimsical laser graphics.

Fabrics are weighty and relaxed, inviting new voluminous shapes that are ideal for the one-size, unisex market. Bold washes and conversational laser treatments add character. For this trend, Akkus presented clean stretch denim with all-over laser dots. Once washed, the pattern acquires a natural indigo look and smooth feel.

For the season’s most sartorial trend, Impact Tailoring, Denim Première Vision presented sophisticated fabrics. That tailoring influence is marked by clean hybrid denim, while silhouettes are based on men’s wear patterns. Touches of wool add softness and warmth ideal for outerwear.

Fabrics like Berto’s 85 percent cotton and 15 percent wool checked jacquards keep a denim spirit with 100 percent indigo yarn in the warp. Rajby’s 80 percent cotton and 20 percent lyocell blend delivers a super soft supple drape with wavy fluidity for dresses, unstructured jackets and trenches. To contrast, 100 percent cotton selvedge woven on traditional Japanese looms from Kyroki and Berto’s 14 ounce fabrics offer a sturdier look.

In Denim Première Vision’s Evening Denim trend, the focus was on day-to-night denim. Trims like sequins, embroidery, lace and metallic foils are paired with leather effects and cloudy vapor effects. The glammed-up trend is key for items like pleated wide-leg trousers, belted jackets and tops.

Mills also introduced fancy threads and coatings to the mix. Eurotessile combined 100 percent indigo yarn in the warp with “galvanic” coated Lurex with a silver shimmer in the weft. The fabric is resistant to all dyeing and wash treatments. Chottani’s 100 percent lyocell fabric with a bronze coating delivered a fluid drape intended for luxury applications.

Meanwhile, Kassim’s soft and warm jacquards evoke the sky with pure blue and bursts of whiteness. Raymond presented coated denim with a ring-ring stretch construction. The fabric offers a subtle shine, yet when its ripped and washed, it reveals the original blue—a reminder that denim serves as the foundation for these fashion-forward looks.