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NYFW Denim Report: Opulence Versus Office Attire

The playful and practical sides of denim showed up to New York Fashion Week, where Fall/Winter 2022-2023 collections spanned versatile, work-friendly staples to bedazzled showstoppers.

Area continued to delight with its glamorous renditions of rhinestone-covered statement pieces. Along with Y2K-era butterfly motifs, the label’s designers Piotrek Panszczyk and Beckett Fogg presented a cropped jean blazer trimmed with cascading crystals, feather-trimmed micro jean shorts and embellished jeans with one pant leg.

PatBo was part of the bling ring as well. Designer Patricia Bonaldi showed blue jeans and elongated Trucker jackets with diamond-patterned embellishments and clear crystal fringe. Simon Miller also sprinkled light-wash jeans and cropped jackets with glittery crystals.

Chains of frosted pink beads were strung through Khiry’s pink denim jackets and jeans. For a moodier look, black floral appliques and beadwork decorated the side of wide-leg jeans by Frederick Anderson.

Levi’s, lacing and zippers were key parts of No Sesso’s collection of non-gender designs. The range of upcycled fabrics made in collaboration with the heritage denim giant, which recently upcycled jeans with Collina Strada, included wide-leg jeans that unzipped to expose flares and jackets with a corseted bodice.

Maisie Wilen’s artful approach to destruction resulted in wide-leg jeans with a trendy checkboard pattern. Peter Do cut into jeans to expose snippets of skin. Rentrayage’s use of deadstock fabrics resulted in pieced jeans with uneven hems, two-tone halter tops and a chopped jean skirt with a black lace underlay. A jean jacket and bomber jacket were also Frankenstein-ed into a unique piece.

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Rips were central to Telfar’s collection of long skirts, slouchy jeans and cropped jackets, as well as Western-inspired pieces with dark wash and signature hardware. Elements of workwear filtered across Commission’s collection of cargo jeans, sturdy denim-pleated skirts and flare jeans.

Khaite zeroed in on the denim-and-blazer cool-girl uniform with jeans that had a tapered balloon shape. Loose-fitting jeans—some with asymmetrical back pockets—added a downtown vibe to Tibi’s line. Cuffed boyfriend jeans in washed-down black enhances Nicole Miller’s polished take on New York punk.

Jeans with split hems and belted shackets were among Veronica Beard’s office-friendly pieces. D-ring belts cinched Derek Lam 10 Crosby’s two-toned button-front jean dress and tunic denim top, while Batsheva applied its modest aesthetic to denim with midi-length peplum skirts and high-collar, puff-sleeve button-front jean dresses.

Casual elegance was a key element in Brandon Maxwell’s eponymous line, which focused on lightly distressed straight-leg jeans. The designer, who also serves as the creative director for Walmart’s Free Assembly and Scoop brands, paired the staple bottoms with elevated quilted coats and blazers with a single buckle closure.

Ulla Johnson zeroed in on versatile pieces in her first denim collection. Designs featured front creases, deep cuffs and pops of neutral colors.

Christian Siriano continued to tease his upcoming collection for Gloria Vanderbilt. Low-rise pieced jeans and a cropped denim boiler suit served everyday cool, while navy blue latex gloves and belts vamped up a dark-wash minidress and sleeveless suit. A quilted denim cocoon riffed on recent Valentino couture designs.