The fashion show known for celebrating traditional men’s wear did not disappoint in the new decade. Since its start in the 1950s, Pitti Immagine Uomo has catered to the dapper gentleman—and during its 97th edition last week, the streets of Florence were flooded with looks that rewind the fashion clocks to a time of rigid structure and tailoring.
Newsboy caps and pea coats—common looks post-World War II—were often paired with neutral-toned turtlenecks and slacks for a complete gentleman look from head to toe. Formal layering was also popular, with button downs, ties, blazers and overcoats the winning formula for many looks.
Women also took pages out of the debonair manual and paired button downs with full pleated skirts and dark overcoats, sweater dresses with traditional trench coats, and turtlenecks with oversized teddy bear coats.
Materials also fell in line with looks of decades past, with corduroy and wool some of the top fabrics seen throughout the week. Overall, colors were muted and minimal, and prints were often limited to traditional plaids and pinstripes.
Though the street style was heavily influenced by the past, modern accents hinted of 2020. Traditional suits were updated to include pops of color in the form of a lavender turtleneck and matching beanie, a mauve double-breasted blazer with matching slacks, a rainbow-colored striped overcoat and an army green utility jacket with neon accents.
Accessories also pushed traditional boundaries in the name of gender fluidity. Where clothing was mostly tame, items such as scarves, bags and jewelry were added with more artistic freedom. Men wore bold scarves with crosses, text and large graphics, unisex crossbody bags and leather backpacks, and introduced subtle, layered jewelry such as rings, necklaces and earrings.
This year’s combination of traditional men’s wear with gender neutral accessories show that, while the classics will always be in fashion, it’s still crucial to weave in elements of today’s inclusive culture.