No single fit or wash dominates Pre-Fall 2023 collection, allowing consumers to refresh their closets with unique denim pieces to suit their style.
Indigo is prominent, overtaking the colorful PFDs and overdyes seen in 2022 collections. Designers are experimenting with contrasting indigo washes and dye effects, however.
Victoria Beckham’s bleached-out jacket and jeans offer a bold take on ombre. Stella McCartney paired light and mid-tone washes to mimic the appearance of denim chaps and opted for moodier, green-tinted indigo for a matching jacket and wide-leg jeans. Phillip Lim combined dark as well as light indigo with black denim in a pair of grommet-embellished slouchy jeans. The multi-tone approach was applied to a zip-up midi-length dress, too. RtA showcased icy blue wide-leg jeans and straight fit jeans with abstract bleached prints. R13 maintains its focus on wide and baggy fits with dirty washes and rips.
In general, looser silhouettes are designers’ go-to shape. Palmer Harding paired an oversized denim top and a peplum shacket with wide-cut bottoms. Jean jackets with extra-long sleeves and wide-leg jeans with all-over distressing were part of Balmain’s collection. Rosetta Getty took a softer approach with a loose-fitting pleated tennis dress and loungewear-inspired set.
Various takes on the Canadian tuxedo underscore denim’s versatility. Phillip Lim presented a matching bomber and mini skirt. Lafayette 148 paired an inky shacket with matching trouser jeans. Derek Lam’s collarless jacket was styled with pleated shorts. A corset top and button-front jean skirt from Cinq a Sept featured figure-flattering seams. Ferragamo took a Western approach with a traditional Trucker and straight fit jeans.
Button-front skirts are emerging as a must-have. Balmain styled its skirt open over a pair of jeans, while a fully unbuttoned Dsquared2 skirt revealed thigh-high cowboy boots.
Designers are turning their attention to hem treatments again. Roberto Cavalli’s flare denim trousers and midi circle skirt were punctuated with undone hems. MM6’s midi skirt had a cut hem. Dsquared2 layered a frayed-hem skirt over distressed jeans. Jacquemus also unrolled its hems to reveal various shades of blue.
Stella McCartney, Brandon Maxwell and Givenchy are among the labels showing cargo jeans. Et Ochs applied cargo pocketing to a long denim coat.
Don’t count out high rises—yet. Ulla Johnson opted for a high-rise five-button fly and front patch pockets. Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini balanced cropped and cuffed cigarette jeans with an ultra-high waist with stacked belts.