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Runway Alert: Volume

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The demise of the skinny jean and rise of the wide leg or boyfriend jean is a favorite topic for brands and editors fishing for newness, but they may have received more than they bargained for.

The oversized jeans and exaggerated coats presented by designers for Fall ’18 takes volume to a new extreme. While svelte silhouettes continue to be among many denim pure players’ bestsellers, high-end designers are electing to experiment with denim in voluminous shapes.

For Fall ’18, designers balanced ’90s-era hoodies and anoraks (or in the case of Balenciaga, multiple anoraks), oversized button-down shirts and boxy coats with fuller bottoms. The slouchy silhouettes are modernized with twisted seams, contrast shading and athleisure elements like elasticized cuffs and drawstring waists.

Parisian brand Y Project, led by Diesel’s new collaborator Glenn Martens, exemplified the season’s tendency for pumped-up looks with men’s and women’s pieces that drowned slender models’ bodies. Banded jeans with generous panels of blue fur scrunched up legs, while the arms of deconstructed trucker jackets fell far beyond the tips of fingers.

Shearling trim on collars, cuffs, pockets and hems added to the oddity of the garments, even dangling from the hem of some jackets. Vetements relished the comical looks with sticker-like details adhered to its jean jackets.