Fashion made for the ’gram enlivened contemporary women’s collections at Scoop in London.
Though the women’s fashion event showcased Fall/Winter 20-21 collections, apparel and footwear skewed toward unseasonably vivid colorways and fanciful trims made to standout in both the digital and real world.
Nordic brands led the way with their simplistic yet whimsical (and often sustainable) approach to women’s wear. It’s this trio of qualities that have launched Scandi labels onto fashionistas’ radar in the last several years. And with Copenhagen Fashion Week recently announcing a new sustainable action plan—a scheme that by 2023 will require companies to meet a minimum of 17 sustainability requirements in order to present at the event—exhibitors at Scoop agreed that sustainable methods are the only way forward.
Roughly 20 percent of 2ndday’s F/W 20-21 collection is made with sustainable materials, said Lela Nair, the brand’s U.K. and international wholesale director. The Danish lifestyle brand offers casual tops, dresses and suiting, and beginning this spring, will offer ThinkTwice, a line of denim made with low impact materials like organic cotton and recycled polyester made from plastic bottles.
The F/W 20-21 line includes a mid-rise skinny jean, a non-stretch straight jean and a mom jean with a twisted seam. The brand’s fashion piece is a high-waisted wide-leg faded black jean, which is also available in a workwear-inspired ecru collection. Small details like a “2” bar tack are found throughout the line, which is complemented by organic cotton printed tunics and ruffled white button-down shirts.
Responsible design is top of mind for Stockholm-based Self Cinema, a men’s and women’s denim and ready-to-wear brand. Founded by Gucci and Burberry veterans Samuel Thomas and Anthony Rock, who helped launch Acne Studio’s Blå Konst denim range, Self Cinema sources its denim fabrics from Japan, manufactures garments in Italy and uses recycled metal for its hardware. Other pieces in the line are made with recycled polyester, while boldly patterned puffer coats are filled with down reclaimed from bedding.
Enduring styles are part of Self Cinema’s approach to sustainable fashion. The women’s line offers 100 percent cotton denim culottes, straight leg jeans with just a touch of stretch and high-waisted skinny jeans with shaping power. Forever Black fabrications ensure long-lasting color. A YSL-inspired denim safari jacket adds a unisex option and can even be worn as a dress by the fashion risk-takers.
Though most of the denim line is simple, there are a few pops of fashion, silver studded culottes, button-front mini-skirts and skinny jeans with retro-inspired “Love Me” embroidery on the back pocket.
Color and prints filtered across the trade show with brands embracing the return of femininity.
Cecile Copenhagen presented its spirited collection of its signature handloom cotton dresses and separates with pink and blue deconstructed houndstooth prints. The brand smacked of Scandinavian cool girl style with items like a blue and white puffer coat, multi-colored metallic windbreaker pull-overs and knits trimmed with the colorful tech-y fabric. Logos decorated colorful silky blouses, dresses and cotton tees. The brand’s purple overdyed denim chore jacket and matching mom jeans were its denim showpieces.
Nordic brand People’s Republic of Cashmere adds a millennial twist to traditional cashmere by embracing bold color. For F/W 20-21, the brand’s cashmere crewneck pull-overs, turtleneck sweaters and ribbed tanks are available in trendy colors like diluted neon green, cobalt blue, royal purple and more. Meanwhile, the brand’s cardigans err on the provocative side, in line with one of WGSN’s 20 trends for the 2020s: the sexigan.
Likewise, French brand Absolute Cashmere presented its youthful take on cashmere with 30 color options and whimsical comic book-inspired prints for fall. Along with using a sustainable dyeing method to dye its Mongolia-sourced fibers, the brand incentivizes customers to recycle their cashmere in exchange for a discount on a new garment.
Italian outerwear company Oofwear combined color (pink, orange, cobalt blue and mustard) and sustainability in its robust line of statement coats. For F/W 20-21, the brand played with oversized shapes, resulting in bubble-like bomber jackets in crushed velvet, two-tone reversible puffer coats and colorful plaid duffle coats. “Eco fur” and “eco leather” is used throughout on pieces like a ’70s-inspired pearlized faux leather coat lined with caramel teddy bear fur.
Though the garments by German brand Delicate Love were cozy (think oversized cocoon-like cardigans), the color palette served strong ’80s Miami vibes. Black prints were layered over color blocked cardigans, while a puff-sleeve mini dress was bathed in “Classic Blue” sequins. A multi-color sequin pencil skirt was office party-ready.
Local British designers also dialed up color and unique designs.
Yolke, a luxury silk sleepwear brand founded in 2013 by Ella Ringner and Anna Williamson, is building out its ready-to-wear line. After finding that consumers were wearing their silk pajama tops out, the brand introduced tops, dresses and bottoms last year. The F/W 20-21 collection continues that concept with linen and viscose pieces featuring original artwork with lemon and orange motifs, and pink and red florals.
True to its sleepwear roots, the garments look best as a matching set. A standout look in the collection was a lightweight cauliflower blue corduroy button-down shirt with a ruffle collar and matching flare trousers. This year, Yolke will also introduce ready-to-wear for girls that mimic the women’s collection.
U.K. newcomer My Overalls presented a concept that taps into the ongoing utility trend while also being a fully-functional garment. The brand, founded by Vivienne Hegarty, specializes in women’s overalls. The one-piece garments are distinguished by an attached zippered pouch, or “bum bag,” Hegarty said can be used to store anything from tools to lipstick and keys.
While renovating a Victorian home and wearing the same overalls day after day, Hegarty, who had no prior fashion experience, had an “aha” moment to develop a line of comfortable overalls that intentionally flatter and move with the female shape. The overalls feature an elasticized waist and are made with 100 percent brushed cotton twill. The collection is manufactured in a factory in Manchester.
The overalls are available in navy, stone and olive. A limited-edition style lined with a floral Liberty print adds a pop of color to the debut collection.
And London serves as the inspiration for 51 North London, a line founded by two former finance professionals. The tight collection offers minimalistic blouses, skirts and trousers for the busy female in the city in a modern color palette of Robin’s egg blue, rust and black. The brand’s leather pieces, like a classic black moto jacket, are made with a local London manufacturer.
While 51 North London’s focus is on mix and match classics, its silver foil leather skirt and multi-colored sequin skirt have been a hit with bloggers and social media influencers.
Fun fashion calls for equally fun footwear. At Scoop, European brands stepped away from the sneaker rut U.S. brands are currently in to offer more fashion items.
Dutch brand United Nude continued to experiment with heel shapes, but neoprene uppers were the main focus of the brand’s F/W 20-21 collection. The lightweight fabrics played into the brand’s futuristic aesthetic, while its color palette—mint, orange, black and white—looked fresh with black and white speckled outsoles. The brand also teased its next collaboration with designer Issey Miyake, presenting tall and short neoprene boots with chunky wavy soles.
U.K. designer Mary Ching presented her new eponymous collection that mixed British quirk with nods to her Asian heritage. Made with upper materials made like holographic silver leather, metallic pink leather and trims spanning oversized pearls to feathered rosettes, the collection is Instagram bait. The brand also has a sister line of cashmere slippers targeted to spas, hotels and resorts.
Materials are the main source of inspiration behind Liebre, a women’s line of classical footwear with a sartorial twist. The brand was founded by husband and wife team Elena Gasulla Tortajada and Israel Lopez Rosas as a way to make something with the unique fabrics they collected during their travels. The result is a line of “Made in Portugal” leather brogues, lace-up and Chelsea boots with an international vibe.
The F/W 20-21 season is made up of four stories: an assortment of shoes made with Victorian-inspired velvet from Liberty; a collection of boots made with Scottish tartans; a collection made with Harris tweed fabrications; and a line made with silk tie fabrics from Como in Italy. Due to the rare nature of some of the fabrics, just 20-50 pairs of each style are made.