Men’s Fashion Week in London, Milan and Paris offered a first look at men’s and dual-gender denim trends for Spring/Summer 2023, revealing a season that is edgy and soft at the same time.
In fact, denim nabbed the No. 1 spot on fashion search engine Tagwalk’s report on top S/S ’23 men’s wear trends.
Designers relied on tried-and-true denim techniques to update their jeans assortments. Echoing a trend seen in women’s resort collections, Celine presented jeans with unraveled hems. Maison Mihara Yasuhiro showed jeans with two-tone legs. Drawstring waists added a laidback vibe to Rhude and Maison Mihara Yasuhiro’s drapey jeans.
Elements of utility filtered into collections as well. Various pockets are placed on the leg of Alyx’s wide-leg jeans. Ahluwalia presented printed utility vests with matching jeans. Meanwhile, Reese Cooper’s 10-piece collaboration with Levi’s blended runway style with workwear utility. The collection includes a Levi’s Type II Trucker and straight fit jeans in triple-stitched organic cotton duck canvas—available in green or ecru—as well as a patchwork chore coat and straight fit jean in indigo denim made from cottonized hemp.
Double denim was a mainstay on the runway. Prada vouched for coordinates by styling collar-less shackets into vintage washed jeans and shorts. Alyx paired a classic Trucker jacket with frayed hems with ripped jeans in the same wash. Rhude upated the Trucker/jean combination with unique pocket placement on its jacket.
Light washes added a soft look. Amiri applied a sun-bleached effect to short-sleeve shirts and matching tear-away jeans. A cloudy shade of blue enhanced the softness of Craig Green’s elastic-waisted jeans and matching tank. Light ’90s washes allowed Hed Mayner’s oversized silhouettes to take center stage.
The trompe-l’œil trend also continued. Dsquared2 applied a layer of bleach-splatted denim to beach shorts. Natasha Zinko featured denim-printed panties. Y/Project added denim prints to a pink-tinted Y2K-inspired skirt. Loewe may have presented the season’s biggest “made you look” moment with experimental jeans with grass growing from its legs and waist.
Non-traditional colors, however, took a back seat to tradition indigo. Doublet applied a marble-effect to its jeans and jackets. Pieced denim in various indigo shades added dimension to Dsquared2’s collection, which also featured jeans with tonal marijuana leaf appliques. Exaggerated shoulders and lapels and mismatched seams updated Jordanluca’s pieced blazer.
While Greg Lauren, Federico Cina and Wooyoungmi kept bottoms wide and loose, other designers embraced slimmer silhouettes. Flared jeans added a touch of retro styling to Ami’s men’s collection. Courreges opted for bootcut jeans.
In general, designers updated destroyed denim with fresh silhouettes. Doublet’s ripped slouchy jeans featured an extra-long exposed zipper. Egonlab paired a slim-fitting chopped-hem denim skirt over distressed jeans. Shredded ecru jeans were a bright spot in Etudes’ assortment of yellow-tinted denim. In JW Anderson’s surreal collection, rips and tears on jeans and jackets exposed a layer of twill khaki and barcodes.
Styling reminiscent of the early 2000s punk-pop music scene edged itself into collections as well. Cool TM layered chopped denim vests over cropped tees and cutoff shorts over exposed branded boxers. Skate-inspired long denim shorts also made a comeback. System, Amiri and Louis Vuitton were among the labels giving jorts a second chance.