Skip to main content

Designers Showed a More Considered Side for S/S ’21

As some countries charge forward with Covid-19 in their rear view, other parts of the world prepare for a second wave. But no matter where you are, one thing is certain: the pandemic will continue to shape fashion well into 2021.

Paris-based fashion search engine Tagwalk anticipates a future rife with cozy clothing—hoodies, roomy pants and romantic dresses with ample movement are some of the top looks and rising trends stemming from the Spring/Summer 2021 catwalk.

While fashion shows were notably less abundant than past seasons—this season featured just 80 shows as opposed to 248 for Fall/Winter 2020—they still generated significant interest.

Though many fashion houses like Gucci sat this season out, which allowed for small designers to capture the spotlight, searches show that appeal of big names remains strong. The top three designers were Chanel, with 3.6 percent of the traffic share, Christian Dior with 3.1 percent and Isabel Marant with 2.7 percent, Tagwalk reported.

Designers took a pared-down approach to collections and runway shows by emphasizing simple designs, nature and sustainability.
S/S ’21 Jason Wu WWD

The pared-down approach to fashion shows is an indication of the industry’s ongoing shift to sustainability and its response to the pandemic, as travel and production were put on hold for months earlier this year. The minimalist approach also showed up in the fashion show venues themselves, with 54 percent of shows taking place outside, mostly in natural spaces, Tagwalk reported.

Venues included the Spring Studios Rooftop in New York City, the Buttes Chaumont in Paris and the Epping Forest in Essex, England.

Related Story

Simplicity often showed up in the collections themselves. Tagwalk used the word “minimal” to tag 48.4 percent more looks compared to S/S ’20. Skin-baring pieces that smacked of ’90s minimalism such as crop tops and bra tops also made the list of rising trends.

Designers took a pared-down approach to collections and runway shows by emphasizing simple designs, nature and sustainability.
S/S ’21 Vivienne Westwood WWD

This pared-down approach to design was applied to the materials designers used in their S/S ’21 collections as well. Upcycled materials took center stage in collections: 14.4 percent of collections used sustainable or upcycled fabrics or responsible production processes, Tagwalk reported.

Recycled denim, specifically, was a major focus for designer Vivienne Westwood, whose standout look featured high-rise pleated wide-leg jeans and a matching long-sleeved corset-inspired top. Recycled jersey, nylon and even Swarovski crystals were also featured in collections by Salvatore Ferragamo, Prada and Balmain.

A joyous feeling, however, was in the air as many fashion designers opted for bolder colors and escapism.

Spring 2021
S/S ’21 Isabel Marant WWD

Though hoodies and “hot pants” typically worn while lounging around the house trended on the runway, shows delivered glamorous looks aplenty. The number of looks tagged with “disco” climbed 174.8 percent from last year.

Crystal embellishments and metallic materials appeared in collections from brands such as Burberry, Balmain, Paco Rabanne and Isabel Marant.