Behind the spectacle of fashion week, brands are focusing on investment pieces that will drive steady sales.
Kendall Becker, fashion and beauty trends editor at Trendalytics, described this back-to-business mindset during a webinar “Runway to Retail.”
Using data from the New York-based data analytics firm’s platform, Becker named the aesthetics, colors and emerging trends to watch for Fall/Winter 2023-2024.
Themes
From A.C.P.’s denim shirting and pleated slacks to Alaia’s wool coats and slouchy jeans, collections were packed with pieces that consumers will reach for on the regular. “Designers [are] welcoming us back to the art of dressing for the every day,” Becker said.
These “wearable wardrobe” items spanned elevated denim, maxi coats, suiting and tuxedo-inspired tailoring, which Becker said is a “great way to take something like a blazer that we all probably have and make it feel interesting.”
A dark side of fashion is emerging as well, culling inspiration from music and the Victorian era. Becker described the aesthetic as an “elevated indie approach” in comparison to the Gen Z-led indie sleaze trend that has populated social media feeds during the past year.
Echoing a recent report by Fashion Snoops, Becker said this “somber” and “edgier” style is showing up in fashion in a number of ways, from Erdem’s lace-filled collection about female suppression to more overt hardware-heavy gothic designs. “Music is also playing a part with rock and punk aesthetics taking off and this was really huge from New York to Paris through a lot of different iterations,” Becker said.
Creative ways of translating art into fashion were also on display in F/W 23-24 collections. Brands like Puppets and Puppets, Melke NYC, Collina Strada and Brandon Maxwell incorporated kitschy and fun motifs inspired by food, veganism, and vices.
F/W 23-24 is also seeing an evolution of Barbiecore and Regencycore, resulting in ultra-feminine looks, Becker said. “When we look at femininity, there’s so many ways that this can be translated. It could be a sexy naked dress or being bold in hot pink or it might be sweet macaroon shades and waterfall ruffles,” she said.
Colors
It’s an exciting time for neutrals. Gray may be a staple but the amount of it in F/W 23-34 collections is up 13 percent, Becker said.
Searches for black clothing is on the rise as well, up 5 percent compared to last year. “I think this goes along really well with the gothic idea… but then also having these wardrobe staples and people opting for an item that they know they’re going to style a plethora of different ways,” she said.
Classic navy takes well to dressing for the office, but its use in pinstripes is especially exciting, Becker said, adding that the average weekly search for pinstripes is already up 11 percent compared to last year.
“It feels like we’re taking some nods from the ’80s with this return to office wear [look] and then there’s also some ’90s minimalism happening,” she said.
Pastels like ice blue, lavender and buttercream continue to be prominent. “It’s transeasonal,” she said about the soft color palette. “You can wear it for spring, but it feels really natural for fall as well, especially paired back to some warm, neutral tones.”
Green-tinted yellow, sunshine yellow and Gen Z yellow are a color family to watch. However, Becker said brands should proceed with caution. “Something to keep in mind here is wearability. It’s not the most inviting color for every consumer, especially if they’re not quite that daring when it comes to trends. So that’s something to keep in mind when you are planning your assortments,” she said.
Jewel-tone magenta is emerging as a “refreshing twist” on the hot pink shade that’s starting to sour with consumers. “Pink is always a crowd-pleaser and still fits really well with our cultural zeitgeist at the moment,” Becker said.
Materials and prints
Leather is always important in fall/winter collections, but Becker said the amount of the material for F/W 23-24 is up 60 percent year-over-year. Lace is taking on a different look as well with more regal iterations. “Sheer is another fabrication that has been on our radar, and this can be anything from the sheer chiffon, a knit or crochet or a fine knit,” Becker said.
Beside pinstripes, Becker said artistic prints, ranging from traditional watercolors to pop art, add a creative edge to collections. Animal prints are also rebounding. This time the focus is on zebra and snake with some redone in unconventional colors and others tapping into a punk aesthetic.