In a category where every brand in every tier offers a skinny jean, garment and finishing companies are opting to invest in creative concepts designed to spark new purchases, require less marketing and inspire inventive ways to bring denim into consumers’ ever-changing, busy lifestyles.
At Denim Première Vision in Milan last week, garment and finishing companies emphasized this need to create newness with examples that keyed into emerging fashion trends. Along with new fits like wide leg jeans and paper bag waists, garment and finishing companies made a case for utility, streetwear, luxury and the hybridization of fashion.
Here’s a closer look at the trends to consider for the Fall/Winter 20-21 season.
Chottani showcased boiler suits and workwear with aggressive laser finishing.
The Pakistan-based design and development firm is betting that utility garments and workwear gain momentum going forward. These effortless and easy styles tap into the fuss-free lifestyles that Gen Z and millennial consumers yearn for, as well as the growing interest in gender-less fashion, said Chottani head designer Carla Alder.
Cargo pants were a fixture in A14 Denim by Akozbekler’s collection. The Turkish design and R&D company enhanced the garment’s utility roots with a palette of cream, khaki, beige and tobacco. Likewise, cargo pants in earthy colors were Turkey-based Baykanlar Tekstil’s answer to demand for utility. The company also respected a range of fabrics with a raw look for women’s brands that want to explore the traditional workwear aesthetic.
Morocco-based garment and finishing firm, Crossing, emphasized the comfort factor of workwear in its collection. The company touted jogger style cargo bottoms in its range of broken-in, ’90s-inspired denims.
Influence from active wear takes a turn toward street as brands focus less on form-fitting, stretch fabrications. Instead, the look is based on loose and relaxed garments that can be combined with other themes and can cross gender lines.
Pullover hooded tops, tops with kangaroo pockets, drawstring waistbands and elastic jogger-style hems made up a large part of A14 Denim by Akozbekler’s collection.
Baykanlar Tekstil’s denim joggers with a slouchy fit and jean jackets with jersey elements resonated with brands that appeal to millennial and Gen Z consumers. The comfortable items, a rep added, tap into the growing desire for travel-friendly apparel.
Shiny finishes are trending up for Fall/Winter 20-21. And taking cues from the space-inspired puffer coats and anoraks that have sprung from streetwear, garment and finishing companies are zeroing in on silver as the key metallic of the season.
A14 Denim showcased shiny silver finishes next to matte black finishes. The coatings looked especially fresh and new on laidback jogger and cargo bottoms. Belted and buckle hems added an edgy subversive look to the firm’s jeans collections, while jean jackets with strong shoulder brought drama.
Baykanlar Tekstil took a pragmatic approach to sparkle by creating pieces that would work for both holiday and everyday wear. The goal, a rep said, was to offer pieces that are more wearable than a holiday cocktail dress but just as unique and special. This approach resulted in items like silver coated joggers and wet-look vinyl jackets that could look cool with both sneakers and stilettos.
To tap into the luxury denim aesthetic that labels like Balmain have toyed with in recent seasons, Baykanlar showcased jean jackets with collars adorned with crystal fringe, jeans with clusters of sequins and crystals, and crystal side taping. The company also presented a deep range of embellished black denim with tonal beadwork and crystals, velvet brushed effects and black lace appliqués.
Acid wash lives on, thanks in part to the popularity of color denim and the urgency for brands to show color denim in new ways.
Black and purple acid wash denim brings an element of ’80s rocker glam to A14 Denim’s range. The combination of over dye and acid wash is effective, says A14 sales manager Burcu Sevilir, because it allows the authentic character of the denim fabric to shine through.
The company is also experimenting with vivid Kelly green, mint and periwinkle for the season. The softer shades help emphasize fabrics with peachy, soft touch stories.
Chottani added color to its range through modern interpretations of ’70s and ’80s trends. To achieve a contemporary hippy look, the company used multicolor threads for mending techniques on jean jackets and bottoms. Meanwhile, black denim was accented with glow-in-the-dark neon Swarovski crystals for ’80s novelty.
Denim’s fixation on deconstructed hybrid silhouettes continue, too. However, Sevilir of A14 says the focus is on mixing denim with non-denim, especially with more traditional fabrics like wool check. For an uptown-meets-downtown look, the company combined jean blazers and belted denim mini-skirts with panels of check fabric.
Meanwhile, Crossing played with the contrast of mixing black and indigo denim fabrics on single garments.