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Y2K Styling, Relaxed Fits Trend at Copenhagen Fashion Week

Copenhagen Fashion Week was home to Fall/Winter 2023-2024 collections that mixed denim with colorful outerwear, unique knitwear and monochromatic sets.

Double denim looks with a medium wash were all the rage in collections by Munthe, Rabens Saloner, and Skall Studio. Slouchy bottoms were typically paired with a relaxed button-down shirt or Trucker jacket. Operasport went darker with its workwear-inspired shacket and trouser jeans.

Dual-gender brand (Di)vision continued to focus on reconstructing denim garments. A maxi skirt was upcycled from a pair of jeans. Rainbow-colored stitching added a youthful touch to carpenter jeans. The brand also brought back Y2K styling by pairing a belted tunic-length knit tank over ripped bootcut jeans. 

TG Botanical took a similar approach to styling by layering a denim tube dress over bootcut jeans. A denim corset top paired back to a maxi skirt. Though brighter shades of indigo were present, these pieces stood out for their brown- and green-tinted washes.

Spray-paint effects colored Wood Wood’s grunge-inspired range. Alpha’s deconstructed approach spanned “cuffed” denim skirts to religious-themed coordinates embellished with clear crosses and pieces that mimicked a nun’s habit.

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A bodice with corset-inspired seaming broke up the long line of Gestuz’s long-sleeve denim dress. The collection leaned into its cool-girl aesthetic with sleek denim suiting, skirts in mini and maxi lengths, low-slung slouchy jeans and shimmery black denim coordinates.  

Washed black denim was a focal point for Holzweiler. Black tulle peaked from its button-front jean dress. Loose-fitting jeans and a front-slit midi skirt were styled with intentionally imperfect knitwear.

Grown-up but playful was the inspiration behind Ganni’s collection. That was illustrated its emphasis on suiting, tailoring, and denim that already feel like wardrobe staples—some made with Circulose

Washed black denim featured prominently in an assortment of elongated Truckers and frayed skirts worn over jeans. Indigo maxi and midi skirts were paired with button-down shirts with balloon sleeves, indicating a move from the puff shoulder silhouettes the brand is known for. The playful side was seen in a range of metallic coated denim corset tops, blazer/Trucker hybrids, skirts and jeans. 

The collection introduced a new butterfly logo. For Ganni, F/W 23-24 is “all about transformation, change, and positivity, all things the butterfly symbolizes,” said creative director Ditte Reffstrup. “It’s a new chapter for Ganni. Our team has come so far since we first started out and it makes me so proud to think about where we are today. The collection has a more mature and grown-up feel this time, it’s sleek and strong yet totally Ganni…”

The show was also an opportunity for Ganni to bow the Bou bag, a handbag made in collaboration with Ohoskin, an Italian supplier that produces leather alternatives made from byproducts of orange and cactus farming as well as recycled plastics. The material is made with 48 percent plant-based content and 52 percent recycled plastics. Reffstrup said the accessory brings the company one step closer to becoming free from virgin leather by 2023.