When it comes to shape and constructions, designer Lutz Huelle is a master manipulator.
When it comes to shape and constructions, designer Lutz Huelle is a master manipulator. The graduate of London’s Central Saint Martins reinvents timeless silhouettes so effortlessly that wrap-over jean jackets and column dresses made with denim and lace begin to look like the new normal.
“I’d love if people looked at something we’ve done and feel like they’ve never seen something like it,” Huelle said about his denim designs. “At the same time, it should not lose its democratic, ‘everyday’ aspect.”
This year Denim Première Vision took note, showcasing the designer’s work at the April 2018 show in Paris. Huelle’s avant-garde designs were well-suited for the show’s aspirational trend themes like “Wild and Wooly” and “Extroverted Street.” The designs were a precursor to the deconstructed, hybrid styles filtering into retail stores this fall.
For Huelle, denim offers boundless creative opportunities. “I love how universal and iconic it is. And because it is so iconic it’s easy to push it in different directions, re-invent it, rework it in different ways,” he said. “There’s so much to do with denim, I think even now we’ve only just scratched the surface.”
However, Huelle’s eye for fashion doesn’t cloud his vision for a more sustainable future for denim. “What’s most important to me now is how denim — as a material and as denim garments — are produced, to be sure that the treatments are not toxic in any way and that people who work in denim are safe,” he said. “Above all, we need to be conscious about the environment.”
What is your first denim memory?
“Watching the movie Hair by Milos Forman—I just loved the whole feel of the movie and those amazing costumes. In general, it seems like the ’70s re-invented denim as much more than just a pair of pants or a jacket.”
What is your favorite pair of jeans?
“My favorite is an old pair of Levi’s 501s that I bought untreated and unwashed, about two sizes too big. I’ve never washed them—only dry-clean — and it has these beautiful real worn creases that you only get with real wear. I wear them rarely now as to not wear them out too much. My other favorite piece is a denim ‘triple-breasted’ jacket from our collection.”