With streetwear and luxury intersecting, British men’s wear designer Martine Rose has emerged as one of the true originals of the category for her collections that often meld suburban “Chav” style with references from her own coming of age story in London during the 1990s.

Recently, Rose has taken a more political slant in her designs as the U.K. wades through Brexit drama with sarcastic shirts with ‘Promising Britain” slogans. And in the process, she has captured the media’s attention, including The New York Times, which chronicled the 48 hours leading up to her S/S ’20 fashion show.

The irony with all the new mainstream buzz is that the eponymous label has built up a cult following for the last 12 years through unconventional denim fits and quirky details designed for outsiders.

“I have always been attracted to outsiders. That has always been something that’s interested me in all elements of culture, music, fashion,” Rose said. “Even personally, it’s always the people in the periphery that I’m drawn to the most. And I think that comes through in my designs, and that resonates with that person.”