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Jimmy Choo Collabs with Marine Serre on Sportswear-Inspired Footwear

Jimmy Choo’s latest collection—a collaboration with one of last year’s breakout designers, Marine Serre—sees the British fashion house merge vintage styles with a futuristic approach toward practicality and comfort.

Jimmy Choo’s creative director Sandra Choi said the collection, released Wednesday, evolved from a pair of 20-year-old boots Serre wore when they first met in 2019.

“I have a pair of vintage Jimmy Choo shoes, the Orchid Boot, that I love because they are super comfortable, really elegant and feminine,” Serre said. “So, for me, it was a link with that, with this style, and with comfort. It’s one of the few shoes like this—pointed, high-heeled—that’s comfortable, that you can bike in. So I thought: okay, it would be interesting to meet with Sandra and Jimmy Choo, to see what we can do together.”

The capsule consists of a 100 mm heel pump; a Mary Jane, ankle-boot, calf-boot, sock ankle-boot and sock calf-boot, all with a 50 mm heel; a knee-high flat boot; and a low-top trainer. Rendered in a palette of black, white, tan and red, the capsule features Marine Serre’s iconic crescent logo across all styles, including as a bi-color “Half Moon” design as seen on the recycled, stretch jersey of the ankle and calf sock-boots.

The “inherently feminine” styles featured in the collection—“sensual hybrids between sportswear, streetwear and high fashion”—are engineered for movement, Jimmy Choo said. The Kato boot, a reference to the soft-soled, flexible fabric boots worn for boxing and martial arts, may be the most obvious crossover, but all styles in the collection borrow from sports, the brand added.

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“In 2021, after time of confinement, we are all wearing sports and exercise clothes more than ever before,” Serre said. “It’s about comfort—but because it’s comfortable doesn’t mean that you don’t need to take care of yourself or be elegant.”

Choi said she’s been inspired by how sportswear uses colors and pattern to complement and streamline the body. Pragmatically, she continued, the segment has also been “hugely influential” in terms of materials, specifically their weight and feel. “Most of all, I constantly ask how can we merge the functionality of a sneaker, a trainer, into a shoe, whether it’s the heel, whether it’s structure, even the fit,” Choi added.

“I wear Marine’s clothes: and when I put them on, I [realized] the way you make a person feel just in the form of the clothes, it is quite special,” Choi said. “The modernity of using the right material, shapes your body. And there’s also a certain sense of sexiness, maybe in that body-consciousness. And I think that came through in the shoes, too. Whenever I look at the capsule, there was the idea of preparing the wearer—it’s like a garment as a tool, as support.”

Both Choi and Serre stressed the importance of the heel height used across the majority of the collection.

“It’s about people walking, cycling—an idea of the future,” Choi said. “Where are we at in terms of reality? Where are we at about the world that we live in? That’s really the exciting thing in this collaboration.”

Serre’s profile has risen dramatically in the past year, leading global fashion search platform Lyst to name her eponymous label No. 1 on its list of breakout brands in 2020. Seen worn by stars like Dua Lipa, Kylie Jenner and Selena Gomez, the most high-profile endorsement of the French label came last summer when Beyoncé wore its catsuit in her “Black Is King” film. According to Lyst, that moment led to a 426 percent spike in searches in 48 hours.

Jimmy Choo received its own national spotlight last month. First Lady Jill Biden wore two pairs of the brand’s heels on the day of the inauguration: a nude Love pump and a blue Romy silhouette.