When it comes to leather trends for Autumn/Winter 2018-19, every yin will have its yang.
Speaking on opening day of Premiere Vision Paris Tuesday, Premiere Vision leather fashion director Claude Vuillermet said the season’s trends will exist in pairs, closely linked but celebrating contrast.
In materials for this so dubbed Binomial trend story, there will be contrast between smooth and uneven surfaces, delicate and exaggerated patterns and gentle textures or those that are over the top with entirely unfamiliar hands.
In colors, warm will contrast with cool as we’ve seen in seasons past, but the colors represented and the pairings set to be popular are entirely new.
“This is a season where if we want to find positive answers and not be left speechless by the general nonsense, disruptions and loss of sense of direction which we are powerless to prevent, we have to keep all our senses on alert and sharpen our sense of humor,” Vuillermet said.
Here’s how the binomial theme will manifest in four trend stories for AW 18-19.
As it’s name suggests, the first trend story, Fight/Love will harness contrasting emotions. Think: soldiers clad in armor but covered with flowers.
Colors: Peeled red, pink brass, regal purple and a liquid blue, a rose called Panties for its delicacy.
Materials: Materials are softened or exposed with cloudy surfaces, subtle glazing, shiny suedes, irregular pr printed patterns, dense or delicate furs, undulated surfaces, matte surfaces, battered surfaces.
The season will see things like python quilted on fabric, very light fox fur attached to textiles for a feather feel, feather patterns that are light and airy, resembling wallpaper decorations.
“These are allover designs that we find on the material,” Vuillermet said.
Leathers will be sensual and soft, with an almost talc finish, we’ll see delicate scrolls on suede – an example of decorations that aren’t too aggressive and still gentle. Plastic and sparkles and sequins will be combines for an almost armor-like mermaid effect. Closely shaved pony will come with irregular metallic finishes, there’ll be coppery incised lamb leather sprayed with metallic highlights and a dripping effect on crocodile that’s been smoothed, giving an impression of rust, a mineral effect.
The Create/Perpetuate trend story will be all about “tolerating a crazy reinterpretation of our works of art,” Vuillermet said—a shakeup and scramble of past, present and future. Being unreasonable will be celebrated.
Colors: Dark and flamboyant, buffed stones and granite, a grey that will be structural for the season, and a dense, dark, solid green called Cricket that may take the role of the dark blue seen in previous seasons, or possibly take over as the new black.
Materials: Materials will have a hint of vintage, oiled appearances and paper textures.
“You haven’t seen any of these yet, but they’re very fine,” Vuillermet said referring to the paper texture leathers.
Grains will be equally expressive and irregular, with random colors showing at the bottom of the grain. Choatic finishes resembling poly dots or tree trunks on cut down pony will make an appearance, as will sheepskin with work done on the underside of the leather.
Herringbone will be big, with iterations on rabbit fur and skins.
“There are some years we have a pattern that turns up everywhere, and this year it’s herringbone,” Vuillermet said.
Leathers will continue to take on more textile-like finishes, like one with an blue jean color reminiscent of shirts and embroidery will show up in folk themes with napa leather.
For Match/Mismatch, the trend will be looks that are organized and incongruous at the same time.
“In the general atmosphere of chaos, we are shaken by our temptation for rigor,” Vuillermet said.
Colors: Deep blues and greenish blues will organize themselves around a matte brown and very gentle yellow. Focal blue, a sort of bright royal blue, is the color of the season and will be seen “everywhere” according to Vuillermet.
Materials: Here, as Vuillermet explained, “Textures hide their real intentions, they seem smooth but the conceal their real appearance.”
Leathers will be functional with rubber-like looks, skins will be very soft and thin, almost like cloth and textile grains will take on mechanical patterns. Two tone leather relief will give the effect of lace and 3-D finishes in a Venetian wallpaper design will appear on a number of different versions of leather, with a sparkling effect that has a grainy way about it. Japanese suppliers are taking traditional patterns, disrupting them and screen-printing on leather. Perforations will be less apparent for the season, but when they do show up they’ll be particularly expressive, and fox fur will come in the herringbone so prominent for the season.
Make a Racket/Keep Quiet
Very clearly pointing to the Binomial trend, looks in the Make a Racket/Keep Quiet story will meet midway between calm and disturbance.
“There’s no need to choose between silence and chaos,” Vuillermet said. “We can shatter minimalism or seek refuge in isolation to indulge in soul searching.”
Colors: Colors are contrasted or harmonious, silent or chatty, muted and brilliant. Ochre yellow will serve as the highlight color, grounded by a warm brown. An ochre black will serve as a fashion color instead of simply a practical one.
Materials: Materials will come in comforting densities, with lots of quilted, padded and embossed looks, animal patterns will show up on skins that are aggressive and “noisy” and furs will be more extroverted than understated.
The season will see bubble grain leather in off-whites, mascarpone almost-white leathers with iridescent finishes, cashmere will mix with fox in purple colors, and snakeskin will be embroidered with Baroque finishes.
“We find this Baroque a little bit all over for the whole season,” Vuillermet said.
Pixels and tweed will start to mix with mink fur, bubble grains will be exaggerated with a plastic feel, but almost liquid-like in its shine. “It’s where we do luxury bad boy” according to Vuillermet.