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A Dizzying Array of Trends Subvert a Challenging Business Backdrop at Premiere Vision New York

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The fashion trends and the business environment are often in a dichotomous state, but there’s one thing that can and is providing commonality—creativity and the need to serve the consumers no matter the conditions.

That was the word from two organizes of Premiere Vision New York, the trade fair held at Pier 94 in New York this week.

Sabine Le Chatelier, deputy fashion director for PV, said, “Against the spectrum in the world, creativity is bubbling up. The way we buy has been transformed by the Web and given a sensory dimension to textiles and fabrics because of the need of people to connect to quality and content.”

Le Chatelier presented “a snapshot of the current fashion trends and ideas for the future” in her “Trend Tasting” forum for the Fall 2018 season.

She called this high speed information overload “dizzying profusion,” that is presenting fabric designers an opportunity to explore polarities in materials and color.

In a group called “Calm Additions,” weavers use 2D and 3D layering techniques in materials such as embroidery and jacquards to create subtle effects on fabrics. In “Irreverent Elegance,” designers take an offbeat approach to luxury with mixed materials and unusual fabric choices, while also using whimsy in prints and colors to balance the tensions of the bulk.

Another important trends area is “Sustainable Perspectives,” dealing with the issue of environmental impacts of textiles and fashion by stressing recycled or biodegradable materials.

[Read more on upcoming trends: Color Direction: Global Uncertainty Brings More Grounded Hues for Autumn/Winter 2018-19]

Colors are forecast to also portray the world’s complexities, with vivid brights, shiny two-tones and contrasts and iridescents are balanced by muted darks, dusty mineral tones and retro earth tones, she explained.

Two key colors driving trends for Fall 2018 are expected to be purple and mustard.

Going deeper, Le Chatelier sees “density and fantasy” as key approaches to textiles and apparel, with shiny satins and silks and metallics balanced by “bewitching darks” and wool yarns.

A light-spirited factor comes into play with bold allover prints on dark backgrounds, while a “coziness” takes hold with bulky knits, jersey, corduroys and plush fabrics.

Guglielmo Olearo, exhibitions director for PV International, said there’s also a mixed environment on the business side, with positive and challenging signs.

“We are trying to figure out how the market is going,” Olear0 said. “The American market has to question itself and determine which way it is going. Distribution channels are changing dramatically and there’s more of a focus on quality and product.”

He said currency exchange between the euro and dollar are stable, which is the good news, but the unsure state of trade and politics and therefore business in the U.S., Europe and elsewhere makes life difficult for suppliers and throughout the supply chain.

Olearo added that PVNY is working to attract more U.S. exhibitors and buyers, with six new suppliers from New York and New Jersey at this edition and the continued relationship with the Council of Fashion Designers of America and New York City Economic Development Corp.’s Fashion Manufacturing Initiative that supports new and emerging designers and manufacturers. The show has also requested that exhibitors lower their minimum orders to serve smaller and emerging designers and companies.

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