Spring/Summer 2020 collections have been revealed on the world’s runways. Marc Jacobs celebrated the joy of fashion. Versace and Jennifer Lopez delivered an iconic fashion moment, again. And Gucci was, well, Gucci. But what does this mean for retailers seeking the most successful seasonal fashion trends?
Retail data company Edited unpacked more than a month of fashion weeks, revealing a season that piggybacks on some key Fall ’19 trends, while others give a proverbial middle finger.
Here’s a look at Edited’s key trends for Spring/Summer 2020.
Seventies is back
After seasons of ’80s overdyed denim and ’90s loose streetwear silhouettes, designers are revisiting the ’70s—and with gusto.
An earthy color palette, suede and bohemian accessories were among the trends Edited called out by designers like Victoria Beckham, Fendi and Alberta Ferretti. Meanwhile, luxury houses including Prada and Gucci took a no-holds-barred approach to the decade by bringing back its signature styling, including wide-lapel suiting, bell-bottom jeans and tiered dresses.
Celine presented a wearable ’70s-inspired look rooted in denim. Flare jeans were paired with silk pussy bow blouses, metallic knit cardigans, peasant tops and aviator sunglasses.
Or in the case of Marc Jacobs and Tommy Hilfiger, designers embraced the decade’s glammed-up disco era with velvet suiting, slinky Lurex jumpsuits, pleated metallic skirts and large floppy hats. Platform heels balanced the new silhouettes—which Edited reported are already a popular item for Fall ’19. Data shows that the amount of platform heels at retail increased 25 percent year-over-year in the U.S.
On pocket watch
And there’s more to utility than last season’s hero style, the boiler suit. Utilitarian fashion remains a force in women’s wear, but for Spring/Summer 2020 designers swayed toward the cargo pant as the utility garment of choice. Kith, Fila and Tibi included cargo pants in their collections, updating the functional garment with high-shine metallic nylon and satin fabrics.
For Tibi, nylon cargo trousers were also an opportunity to inject soft shades of melon and pink. Large pockets were carried throughout the New York City-based label’s collection, across button-down shirts and on the skirts of sleeves less dresses. Along with oversized pocketing, Edited said the utilitarian trend is influencing accessories trends like cross-body bags, belt bags and toe post sandals.
Perhaps it’s the lingering influence of “camp” or a backlash against streetwear, but hyper femininity trended for the Spring/Summer 2020. The runway was lush with gowns made with layers of tulle, sheer organza and other lightweight and ethereal fabrics by Molly Goddard, Valentino and Marc Jacobs.
However, expect to see a more wearable version at retail. Dresses with puffed sleeves and longer lengths will likely be the commercial interpretation of the runway look. And consumers are already warming up to longer hemlines. The midi dress continues to hold court with Fall ’19 arrivals already up 45 percent year-over-year, Edited reported.
To compound the femininity, pastel pistachio and lilac tones are “tipped to be the standout palette of spring,” Edited said.
From the rise of millennial pink and Gen Z yellow, to the unwavering strength of red in a post-Me Too world, color has been a driving force in women’s fashion for several years. And while color is not disappearing anytime soon, as indicated by the plume of feminine gowns for Spring/Summer 2020, it is being countered by a moody, springtime goth movement.
Jil Sander, Chanel, Alexander McQueen and Erdem presented all-black looks that ranged from Victorian ruffles and Spanish flamenco to cloke-like dresses with dramatic high-low bell sleeves.
Black leather was among the unseasonable items on the runway that caught the attention of Edited. The gothic trend was also interpreted with “sweeping silhouettes, vintage-inspired dresses, netting and dark makeup,” Edited said.