The global jacket and coat market is forecast to generate approximately $94.5 billion in retail sales by 2021, up from around $81 billion in 2016, according to Statista, making it an attractive category for all tiers of fashion.
And for high-end designers, outerwear means big-ticket sales.
For Fall/Winter 19-20, labels like Balenciaga, Fendi and Off-White are reaching for high impact designs that are both statement and investment pieces. Luxury elements like leather and fur are combined with traditional styling for longevity, while brands bulk up to provide the level of functionality required of the category. And for novelty, inspirations from streetwear and après-ski brings color and performance to the winter runway.
Here’s a look at the five key outerwear trends to know for Fall/Winter 19-20.
Designers want a piece of the outdoor market—or at least it’s aesthetic.
Unique collaborations from opposite ends of the fashion spectrum like The North Face’s partnerships with Sacai and Comme de Garcons, or Christopher Raeburn’s partnership with Timberland have helped fuel the outdoor-inspired trend and normalize technical looks on the runway.
Raeburn, who was named Timberland’s first-ever creative director in 2018, brought elements of the outdoor brand into his runway collection, including recreating some of the brand’s original pieces in upcycled military parachutes. Parkas, puffer coats and oversized snoods promised warmth, while reflective fabric and elasticated pull strings provided performance.
Color blocked ski jackets were part of Les Hommes’ collection inspired by a trip to the Himalayas. The label also layered bright yellow and blue puffer coats over relaxed suiting and nylon pull-overs. Kenzo suited up for an expedition with hot pink down-filled vests, gloves and matching base layers. The vivid pieces were contrasted with burgundy utility vests.
Meanwhile, the fictional ‘Chalet Gardenia’ created inside the Grand Palais in Paris in March for Karl Lagerfeld’s final presentation for Chanel summed up the season’s mood for luxurious après-ski style. Knit dresses and shearling boots were paired with a parade of puffer coats in glam ’80s shades of royal purple and lipstick red, while double C logo belts added shape.
Full leather ensembles were all over the Fall/Winter 19-20 runway as dresses, jumpsuits, suiting and most notably coats for men and women.
John Lawrence Sullivan’s designer Arashi Yanagawa brought slick, punk rock looks to the runway with reptilian leather coats with slouchy shoulders, patent leather trench coats and black leather dusters. The jackets were amplified with leather trousers (including green snake print leather skinnies) and square-toe leather boots.
A double-breasted leather trench coat anchored Daks’ British-inspired collection, which also included leather wrap skirts and knits with large leather pockets. MSGM went the opposite direction with men’s oversized zip eco-leather bomber jackets. The black and red statement pieces were embellished with all-over moto-themed embroidery in contrast white stitching.
Balenciaga and Fendi opted for timeless belted black leather coats. Fendi’s leather trench for men had a sleek and simple sci-fi aesthetic, while Balenciaga padded up its black leather wrap coat.
Thick, coarse and known for its signature toggle closures, the duffle coat is a classic men’s wear go-to for winter months—which made the style ripe for a makeover by young and fresh brands like Hed Mayner and Undercover.
Hed Mayner played with proportions of his duffle coat, telling WWD that his goal was to create a garment that fit cozy around the body even if it looked a touch ill-fitted. Japanese designer Fumito Ganryu took a more tailored approach to his amped-up gray wool duffle coat by adding more volume to the width of the body, sleeves and hood.
Undercover incorporated rust orange duffle coats in its collection inspired by Stanley Kubrick’s “A Clockwork Orange.” The color was also a popular choice for Berluti, which updated its tangy-hued wool duffle coat with black leather insets.
While Balenciaga’s $9,000 seven-layer coat from Fall ’18 became a pop culture phenomenon generating endless memes, duvet coats are trending in a more wearable and appealing way than ever before this season.
Proving that the style can go from meme to reality, Balenciaga was back at it again with Fall/Winter 19-20 a pink down-filled ankle-grazing cocoon coat. The coat was part of a wide collection of coats with bold shoulder, pleating and exaggerated sleeve lengths. Off-White took a similar approach with a long white and black checkerboard print puffer coat.
Other designers added cozy, blanket-like qualities to trenches and wool jackets. Cedric Charlier added quilted stoles across coats—an accessory that could double as an impromptu pillow. And Roksanda wrapped double-faced soft vests around wool jackets.
High-end designers are warming up to the casualization of real and faux fur. While “teddy bear” jackets, colorful fur and exposed shearling became a staple of fast fashion brands’ collections last winter, labels like Fendi and Ermenegildo Zegna introduce a more elevated version of the trend for Fall/Winter 19-20.
For Fendi, military green fur added a luxury feel to its otherwise lightweight, casual button-down jackets. The brand also presented slouchy zip bomber jackets with two-tone fur and graffiti-printed fur. Ermenegildo Zegna added an elegance to sporty toggle pull-overs with midnight blue fur bodies.
Emporio Armani dabbled in faux teddy bear fur long coats for men—a look that was looked especially relaxed worn over a hooded sweatshirt. For outerwear, the designer also experimented with faux furs that have a velvety sheen and long hair versions, and furry coats lined with more fur.