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Beyond Italy: Sources For Shirting

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Italy is renowned for superior shirting. But a slew of unlikely firms are deservingly attracting designer attention. From Australia, Japan and Switzerland, meet three companies intent on matching ‘Made In Italy’ quality for blouses and button-down fabric.

Hausamann & Moos

Hausammann & Moos describes itself as a maker of “timeless cotton”. Located in Switzerland, Hausamann’s roots stem back as far as the 19th century. And it is this long history that has seen it develop into a connoisseur of cotton, with knowledge passed down from generation to generation. And Haussamann & Moo has certainly evolved.

Today, it makes organic cotton cloth and shirting that is certified by GOTS and the Oeko-Tex Standard, pinpointing its transparent and responsible production methods within its weaving and dyeing mills. Hausammann treats and purifies ‘used’ water captured from its production of cotton, giving it back to the source. Adding an additional tick of approval, all shirting bears the ‘swiss+cotton’ mark – a sign of tried and tested quality by Swiss fabric professionals. Only the top three percent of the world’s cotton production satisfies these strict requirements.

Offering exceptional shirting is just one arm of the firm’s repertoire, but it isn’t produced as an after thought.

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A lot of skill and design attention goes into fabrics such as the fibrous Baleno cotton poplin in stark, textural white. Its sheeny weave and subtle embossed dots are perfect for women’s blouses and men’s formal shirts.

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Another standout is the Kingston stretch – a fuchsia pink that is just dark enough even for men’s wear.

Hausamann & Moss shirting can be shopped online at Le Souk and is exhibited at Premiere Vision Shanghai and Paris, Munich Fabric Start and C.L.A.S.S.

Takisada Nagoya

Takisada starts its manufacturing process from scratch. At least six months before the start of a new season, the Nagoya-headquartered firm begins analysing and predicting trends for what will be fashionable. Written plans and storyboards are presented before being sent off for manufacturing.

Creating fashion cloth from natural and synthetic fibers in its Shanghai mill, quality shirting is a major component at Takisada.

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Its women’s wear is largely exported to Europe, in high demand for its reasonable price despite its quality. A popular choice is the dry double stretch cloth in grey-teal. Its 100% polyester component offers a sporty luxury to women’s blousing.

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For men, the chambray cotton stretch cloth is a dapper material for smart casual pieces. Composed of 65% cotton, it is a natural, breathable shirting cloth for men’s button-downs. The sharkskin colorway is a visually textural option for winter, too

Takisada shirting is a regular feature at Texworld in Paris, Intertextile in Shanghai and Beijing, and at Munich Fabric Start. At Premiere Vision in Paris this last season, Takisada showed its Japanese ‘Ja-Fabric by takisada-nagoya’ collection, which is wool-based.

Phillips Shirting

Phillips Shirts is a Melbourne-based shirtmaker who only recently started exporting its heritage shirting materials to the world. Seasonal shirt fabrics with exquisite art patterns are sourced from the UK and Europe, as well as an extensive range of unworn vintage cloth sourced from the Sixties, Seventies and Eighties.

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Andrew Peterfreund, son of Alex Peterfreund who co-founded the business in 60 years ago, now heads up the company. After joining the business in 1988, he worked his way through various departments before becoming the head buyer, building strong relationships with fabric suppliers around the world.

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Tuxedo, corporate shirting and vintage floral fabrics are the staple shirting pieces from Phillips – the new and the old all comprised of 100% cotton.

Today, the factory is one of the last remaining shirt manufacturers in Australia and is still considered to be one of the best shirt makers in the country. You can see more of Phillips Shirts’ process and products here.

 

—By Benjamin Fitzgerald

STR

Le Souk connects the world’s finest mills & tanneries directly to the design industry’s leading creatives. We bring together a trusted supplier network, the latest technologies and a community of designers and makers to make global sourcing possible – any time & anywhere.

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