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Buyer Alert: Denim Wefts

From new denim constructions, weights and washes to the steps global mills are taking to reduce impact, Rivet's SS23 In Season Look Book: Denim & Trims has everything you need to know for a successful denim season.

Denim makers continue to focus on the back sides of fabrics to differentiate their material collections. In addition to new fiber blends, stretch qualities and recycled fiber contents for weft yarns, the look they impart is of key interest to end-consumers, and thus to buyers.

Salt-and-pepper weft yarns continue to trend, moving into 2015. At Kaltex, heather fill yarns (see images below) remain important to buyers, giving mélange or static looks to fabric backs. While black-and-white combos are big for fall and winter, blue and ecru twisted or heather wefts could prove popular for spring and summer, creating softer speckled or marled looks.

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Solid color wefts remain big among denim designers. Brown tints give allover “dirty” workwear appearances to reverse sides, visible via turned-up hems, rips and heavy abrasion. Depending on the density of the weave and the intensity of the weft yarn’s hue, colors grin-through to fabric faces, deepening or lightening surface appearances. Instead of traditional white or ecru fills, deep blue wefts (like the rope-dyed yarns of Bossa’s Ultra Indigo collection) enhance the raw richness of indigo warps; black yarns (including Cone’s food-tray-black and Soorty’s slub black versions) add gritty depth. Evolving the spring/summer trend for whiter and lighter jeans, colored wefts create chalky pastel appearances, grinning through to textile faces.

Kaltex heather fill yarns

Kaltex heather fill yarns

Heather or mélange yarn effect, Kaltex

Heather or mélange yarn effect, Kaltex

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