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Buyer Alert: Coated Denim

While often associated with fall and winter denims, waxing and coating treatments move into Spring/Summer 2015 collections, giving rubbery tactility to lighter weights. Depending on application and raw ingredients, which range from polyurethane to lanolin and beeswax, coated denims look slick and wet, or matte and gummy. Even sheen coatings enhance surface reflection and drape: two qualities evocative of fashion’s ongoing neoprene trend. For matte qualities, paraffin waxes communicate weathered sailcloth and leather appearances. Creasing and distressing enhance wear-down effects, which remain important for vintage workwear themes. Engineered placement coatings and hand-applied treatments provide differentiation at the garment stage. Moving beyond jeans, coatings refresh denim and indigo shirtings.

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For S/S 15, must-have denim colors include electric and ocean blues, rich blacks and greys; industry heavyweights like Orta Anadolu, Soorty, Tavex and Kaltex all feature coated and waxed versions. Kipas highlights glossy surfaces in acid green, aqua and grape. Providing newness to the premium market, transparent coatings encapsulate printed and over-dyed denims.

Activewear-like maneuverability and comfort are becoming essential to denim and lifestyle apparel. Going beyond seasonal trend, this direction is the new norm for the entire fashion market. If not already, it will become expected and required. Along with water-proofing, wind-proofing and stain resistance, new added-value benefits of surface coatings include heightened fabric softness and better performance on stretch wovens. Kassim’s polyurethane treatments and Isko’s HydroCoat technology offer polished sheen with surprisingly supple hands; these new coatings do not hinder stretch or shape retention.

Glossy coated shine – Kaltex