Fashion has no problem playing with bizarre ideas and questionable aesthetics for Spring/Summer 2020. It’s a happy-go-lucky attitude that’s inviting new ideas and fresh concepts, says Julie Greux, associate fashion director of Première Vision.
“We’re opening door to a new way of think about fashion. We’re stepping outside the frame,” Greux said Tuesday at Première Vision in New York City. “The season is committed to eco responsibility and high technology; creativity and collaboration; notions of happiness and simplicity working together in concert.”
The result is a spirited and fun season enhanced by vivid color stories inspired by Miami nights, fruit skins, fantastical takes on tropical plants and preppy maritime ideas.
Here, Greux describes the key Spring/Summer 2020 color, texture and fabric trends through the lens of Première Vision.
With names like Mechanical Sun, Explosive Pink and Howling Orange on the color card, there’s no mistake that color delivers the season’s wow-factor. Impactful reds, pale lime yellows, sugary pinks and electric blues are bolstered by bright white across womenswear, menswear and activewear, Greux described.
Transparency and gradients remain important, as designers continue to play with color filters and watercolor effects. The forecast includes graduating tones on quilted fabrics, rainbow effects over rustic textures and semi-transparent silks with blurred florals. The Monet-inspired haziness is expected to be a “breakout bestseller in 2020,” Greux added.
Shine takes on a slippery look with transparent coatings that don’t mask the natural weave of the fabric. Rather, Greux says the coating magnifies the fabrics’ natural irregularities and leather grains.
Instead of intense metals, Greux sees women’s fashion and footwear moving toward mermaid-like effects. Lightly colored yarn, vaporized metallic and pearl coatings offer a fresh new look for glammed-up fashion.
“This season’s accessories are brightened up with shine that combines different effects like pearly pastels, iridescence, milky tones and metallics that highlight the weaves of the materials,” she said.
Floating silk, dry seersucker and cottons that mimic wrinkled paper add a sense of carefree, breeziness to the season. And Greux says the call for lightness is carried into men’s wear, activewear and athleisure with windbreaker materials. The crinkled water- and wind-resistant fabrications are updated with fashion prints and tonal stripes.
Gingham in “dynamic colors,” lace with checkerboard motifs hidden among traditional florals and bold stripes that work in opposite directions are among the unsuspecting ways fabric designers are injecting pattern and color, Greux said. Meanwhile, semi-transparent striping, jacquard stripes with ethnic inspiration and patterns that mimic the pixilation of a video screen serve up modern updates of tried-and-true ideas.
The season moves away from the literal interpretation of tropical florals. Rather, Greux says prints take a primitive turn with more leaves and fewer flowers that capture a surreal point of view of the jungle. Prints of giant succulents, exaggerated eyelet and tonal embroidery serve up a colorful and over-the-top tropical punch.