Amid global uncertainty and discord, textile trends will look to run counter with a sense of solidarity and colors that serve to uplift.
That was the message during a trend presentation by Texworld art directors Louis Gérin and Grégory Lamaud on the opening day of Texworld USA at the Javits Center in New York Monday.
The theme for the coming Fall/Winter 19-20 season is Vertigo, which points to the fact that though things in the world may be spinning, consumers are keen to ground themselves, and they’ll be looking to adorn themselves accordingly.
Today’s consumers, Gérin said, “are much more driven by their soul, their heart, what they are deeply inside,” and that will be reflected in the four key textile trends for the F/W 19-20 season.
Drawing on light as both a revelation and in its more literal sense, Radiant Revelation will be all about color.
“It’s what’s going to drive us in this season, in this very colorful color range,” Gérin said. “Artificial and natural colors are mixing to provide this vivid and vibrant palette for tomorrow.”
Colors in the range span cool blue greens reminiscent of the Mediterranean Sea, like Utopian Horizon and Translucent Abyss, a deep lavender called Serene Reflection, and past seasons’ blush gets richer and more neutral at the same time. A bright orange Acid Heat and a vibrant salmon called Carnal Fusion spice up the range, which is rounded out with Fugacious Ray, a powerful golden yellow.
Patterns will feature reversible modules, multi-layer prints, graphic density, pop abstraction, scattered spots and palpable transparency.
Textiles will channel wire, compressed layers, weaves that are more obvious, random gauge and synthetic ridges.
The F/W 19’20 season will see trends transcend, moving from chaos to greater calm, as evidenced by the Subdued Revolution story.
“Perhaps the mix of the non-organized aspect are the answer for tomorrow, just to elevate, to accept the error of the past, to accept the reality of the world we are living in to project us into this bright future,” Gérin explained.
Colors here comprise heavy and warm tones that express “our burning soul,” according to Gérin. “There’s a mix between tones that are really warm and calm at the same time.”
Deep and passionate pink and wine hues, like Decomposed Motion and Devouring Passion, are brightened by acidic greenish yellows, softened by neutral tans like Cardboard Radiance, and rounded out by Ashen Weariness, a fleshier blush, and Peaceful Swirl, a new, cooler take on lavender.
Patterns will reflect felted framing, wave modulation, natural lamination and random magnetism.
Textiles will feature manufactured resin, contrasted density, mineral mosaic, wired grids, sequential netting and volatile wiring.
For the Enlightened Ascent trend, textiles will mimic nature—plants in particular.
“We must follow the plants…raise our heads toward the light,” Gérin said. “We are no longer restrained, constrained by the materiality of things.”
Colors in this story merge natural tones and a virtual/natural feeling. Earth tones like the mossy Earthly Remnant and blush tones like Clay Envelope, will merge with the floral wine tones of Scarlet Platitude and the brighter orange of Solar Fragment.
Patterns apparent in this trend will be embossed relief, tubular arrangements, embroidered oxidation and customized fragmentation.
Textiles will feature silky resistance, obstructed perforation, spotted density, bronze grids, brushed coatings and “excited” repetition.
The fourth and final trend in the Vertigo story for F/W 19-20, Astral Flight, serves to sort of embrace all of the surrounding uncertainty and make light of it.
“After this colored season, this heavy patterned season…with all this mix of culture, we are going back to black, but in a very positive feeling,” Gérin said. “We are going through a color range that evolves us into this dark.”
Colors in the story have a futuristic association, like the almost electric blue Iridescent Neon, and the otherworldly blue-grounded purple, Sleepless Night. There are three purples in the nine-color story, and even the season’s browns seem to have a purple tint to them. A bright Ginger Moon orange and a deepened almost-red coral, Incandescent Takeoff, highlight the palette.
Patterns will reflect hollowed surfaces, spontaneous contour, curved refraction and digital circuits.
Textiles in the trend will have dreamlike entanglements, concentric knotting, fuzzy curls, tubular depths, distorted filaments and electric braiding.