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Fall/Winter 20-21 Fabric Trends Tell a Dark Fairy Tale

Nature, mindfulness and comfort are among the themes influencing fashion for Fall/Winter 20-21. At Première Vision in New York last week, Julie Greux, the show’s associate fashion direction, shared how these trends are being played out in fabrics and trims.

For Fall/Winter 20-21, Première Vision painted a picture that is both vibrant and dark with fantastical forest themes running throughout. This, Greux explained, is spurred by the growing popularity of fortune tellers and psychics, along with consumers’ desire to reconnect with nature. The mood, she described, is artificial with nocturnal colorways, shadowy florals and organic shapes that often feels disturbed.

Fabrics reference the Renaissance. Iridescent lace, or lace with insect or branch motifs, help create this dark fairy tale aesthetic. Florals are outlined with metallic yarns, which Greux said take on a more eroded appearance than being pure metallic. Abstract jacquards for outerwear are updated with wavy lines. Tweeds and wool suiting, too, are blurred with brushed effects. Prints, Greux described, are abstract forms that don’t resemble anything in real life.

Accessories are based in dark metallic and are enhanced with gasoline effects or “shadowy enamel,” she added.

The season also calls for a new level of coziness with “rich full body fabrics” and “dense products without the weight,” Greux reported. The cocooning trend evolves with shapes that are “generously cozy” and that are “blown-up” yet ultra-light.

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Brushed wool updates modern garments like the hoodie, while suiting breaks away from traditional styling thanks in part to a new approach to color. Here, Gruex said pale gray and white pastel tones are prominent out of consumers “desire for tenderness and well-being.”

This focus on soft and light is carried into elegant fabrics. Ultra-soft fabrics with a “skin-like velvetiness” offers protective softness, Greux said. Meanwhile, transparencies with discreet opaque patterns, silk with a liquid glow and silk with a wet look offers options for dress and evening.

And the movement for anti-conformity fashion shows no signs of waning. Greux said the trend will be expressed in Fall/Winter 20-21 fashion through squared-off patterns and silhouettes, “radical geometry” and a play on scale.

Here, jacquards imitate window pane weaves, knits are arranged in brick-like patterns and lamé squares enliven patterns. Hairy looks are updated with Chevron prints that combine long and short hair. Graphic prints, Greux added, have a handmade look that mimics the brush strokes of a felted pen. And accessories are whimsical with satin fringe labels, colorful braiding and 3-D leather cutouts.